Saturday, July 21, 2012

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V203: New Dress Design: Robe Royaliste

I don't have enough 18th century gowns.  I have jackets and things, and I do love jackets, but when it comes to full gowns, I have, like, one (soon to be two).

So time for a new one!  I found some lavender taffeta online and thought it would make a great 1790s roundgown, paired with a huge black silk sash, and giant black Gainsborough hat.  I'm not settled on the style, but here are my initial sketches:

This gown will be "Robe Royaliste," if we were in France in 1790.  Both the purple and the black were royalist colors, and add in a little green or yellow and the statement would be obvious!

I've been perusing fashion plates from Dames a la Mode, to find some inspo.  All of these would also be Royalist gowns, in France, and will help decide a final design for my Robe Royaliste:

Journal des Luxus, April 1792.  I adore this, the gown, the hat, the belt.  I like the interesting combo of redingote and gathered front, like a gaulle.
Journal des Luxus, 1791
Undated (but probably 1792) by Ann Frankland Lewis
Other inspiration....
From Kyoto Costume Institute - not a fashion plate, but one of my favorite 1790s gowns, and would be a savvy design for what I'm thinking.
George Romney Unknown lady, ca. 1786. - with the redingote collar and button cuffs.  The front looks gathered...?  A little earlier than my target dates.
From LACMA, the back of their stunning 1790s redingote.  I adore the huge mannish collar(s) on this one.
Marie Louise Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun. Marie-Louise of Bourbon-Sicily. 1790 .  I like the idea of redingote details, but I want the skirt to be closed.  The gathered-bust and long sleeve gaulle styles are also enticing, if the taffeta I bought will work that way.

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14 comments:

  1. Is the bustline higher, perhaps empire? Or, is the sash that I am noticing?

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    1. It looks like for the gathered front on the fashion plates the waist is tight, and then the poofs start at the bust, so it's kindof a midriff thing going on, if that makes sense?

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  2. Love all the sashes, many thoughts now on what to do next to update my gown to go with red Kensington's.

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  3. I love this post, a whole page of pretty dresses to drool over. I thought of you when I went to Killerton House in Devon recently as there were tons of gorgeous dresses there on display (I blogged about it last week if you're interested pop by http://lesleysgirls.blogspot.com/2012/07/fashion-history-exhibitions.html)

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    1. Great blog! Thank you for linking - I will add you to my blog roll :-)

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  4. Oooooh that will be so pretty !!! I love the idea of a Robe Royaliste!!!

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  5. One can never have too many gowns or jackets :D I can't wait to see what you make!

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  6. Looking forward to seeing your project! I admit I'm rooting for seeing something gaulle-ish (not to be confused with Gaulish...ha!) as I've seen few recreations of these and would love to see your process with one!

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    1. I'm leaning that way too, but I'm not sure if the taffeta will want to do it, y'know? I really love the one in The Duchess, though....

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  7. Love the lower bodice and full gown in your sketch! It may just be me, but I'm a sucker for buttons and a sash :) Can't wait to see what you come up with! Whatever it is I'm sure it will be gorgeous. You're right, a girl can never have enough gowns....I'm working on my first 18th C gown right now, with more to follow!!

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    1. Buttons - I love them, too, lol. And thank heaven for the 1780s and 90s for using them to great extent :-)

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  8. You might have already seen this blogger, but the Kyoto Institute dress you posted reminded me of this dress she made.
    http://augustintytar.blogspot.com/search/label/Robe%20%C3%A0%20la%20Turque

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