Cleo Boots, from our current Skeleton Collection pre-order, are one of the most elegant, intricate boots styles we’ve ever released. These highly detailed cutout boots are based on the high-fashion boots of the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, a particularly evocative and interesting historical fashion trend. If you, like us, love some shoes that are a bit ‘extra,’ you will love today’s dive into the gorgeous boots from history that inspired the design process behind Cleo.
As Nancy Rexford notes in Women’s Shoes in America 1795-1930, there isn’t a singular, totally standardized description for strappy cutout boots like Cleo. In some magazines and catalogues, they’re called “sandal boots”, or ‘Grecian boots’. We have also seen some styles, specifically with straight-cross straps, occasionally referred to as ‘barrette shoes’ or ‘barrette boots’. We have long referred to strappy shoes and boots as ‘ribcage shoes’ or ‘skeleton shoes’ (hence the Skeleton Collection).
In the costuming community, we often poke fun at the oft-repeated jokes and stereotypes that surround women’s ankles and their inherent salaciousness. The idea that ankles were meant to be totally hidden is simply not true! As the 19th century started to come to a close, hemlines began to rise a bit- think walking skirts, etc.- in a way that made it possible to show off one’s shoes and boots more. Therefore, decorative boots and shoes were very chic. Luckily, lots of examples survive in museum collections and archives, so that we can fawn over them as much as we like.
These boots from the collection at LACMA are among several surviving examples of the same style. Strappy cutout boots like these highlighted one’s silk stockings- that was part of the appeal of the style. Fashion journals from the late Victorian era all the way to the 1920s agree on this! Note the fine straps and shaped tips of the strap ends. This is the level of detail we endeavored to recreate with our Cleo Boots.
While strappy cutout boots could certainly be seductive, boots with straps and cutouts weren’t a style that were for adults only. This popular style of boot was worn by both women and children, in fact. See these surviving examples of children’s boots, and the photograph from the Shoe Icons Museum above. If you’re ever curious about whether a pair of these boots is for children or adults, look at the heel- a French spool heel (like on Cleo) is nearly ubiquitous for women’s boots, while children’s boots had flatter, lower heels.
These sorts of boots were meant to fit snugly, and to hug the natural shape of the leg. The ever-important back curve of the shaft was crucial for fit- like in the antique pair from the Shoe Icons museum shown above. Our new Edwardian boot last, first used for Edith and now for Cleo, captures this historical shaft shape beautifully. Buttons (like on Cleo) were popular, and some styles had tabs with laces that could be adjusted for a custom fit. At the time, buttons could have (and often were) moved on an individual’s boot to customize fit. Our Cleo boots actually have a decently sized tab where the button is mounted, if you want to move the buttons on yours.
Overall, there was a lot of variety to be found with strappy cutout boots and shoes. Buttons could be anchored on the side, as is most common with standard button boots, or in the middle (often seen with children’s shoes, but also not uncommon in higher-heeled women’s wear). Cutouts came in the more diamond-shaped pattern that Cleo has down the front of the vamp, and in the popular teardrop shape that Cleo has down the sides. Many popular strappy boots had bar straps, like our Colette Boots, or the historical example below.
This stunning pair of late Victorian beaded boots (currently for sale on Etsy) buttons in the front, with a loop closure as opposed to a buttonhole.
This incredible pair of boots from the Powerhouse Collection in Australia date to 1896, and have a total of thirteen straps and buttons. You wouldn’t want to be putting these on when you were rushing to get out of the house!
There was even a subset of boots like these that had vamps punched with a pattern using a punch jig.
This super-unique pair of bespoke button boots from the collection at the Bata Shoe Museum is actually meant to mimic a stockinged leg beneath the cutouts. This is an especially titillating pair!
You may also recognize the similarities between cutout boots like these and their successors, tango boots. The main differentiating factor is the level of openness over the vamp and the scalloped tabs with laces that tango boots have. Tango boots (which you can learn about in this post) started to become popular around the 1910s. Boots with leather straps, button closures, and more closed lace-up closures remained popular alongside them until the early 1920s.
We have loved the process of bringing this showstopping boot style back to life with our new Cleo Edwardian Boots, which are available in five colors, and in standard (B) and wide (D) width. They are truly something special!
Pre-Order is Open
October 17-26
15% Discount Per Pair
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