Spooky scary skeletons may send shivers down your spine, but our new Skeleton Collection is scary beautiful! It consists of new Cleo Edwardian Boots, Gloria Edwardian Shoes, and Hedy Vintage Slingbacks- and all three styles are on sale for 15% off per pair if you pre-order through Oct. 26, by the way!
At American Duchess, we’ve long referred to historical shoes that are defined by rib-like straps and cutouts as ‘ribcage shoes’ or ‘skeleton shoes’. This was the starting point for our October pre-order Skeleton Collection- we decided to design three distinctive styles with strappy leather ribcage motifs and evocative cutouts. Designing this collection has been a fun challenge in the best sort of way!
Cleo was our first shoe that we worked on for this collection. We have long dreamed of developing a late Victorian/Edwardian era boot like this, with crosscut openwork straps over the shin. Boots and shoes with cutwork like this became very popular at the end of the 19th/start of the 20th century (we’ll go into this in more detail in another blog post shortly). We’re lucky that lots of antique examples in good condition still exist, because these are truly some beautiful boots!
It is crucial that a reproduction boot like this has exactly the right shape and silhouette. We did not want to compromise when it came to the details. So, once we had perfected our Edith Boots, we knew we had the right last and heel to build our skeleton boot on. This last has just the right ankle curve, and the shaft and vamp have the right shape. Our 3″/7.62 French spool heel (a labor of love) is simultaneously comfortable, historically accurate, and has all the right details for a spool heel from this specific time period. With the right base, so to speak, we were able to perfect the finely detailed straps and laser-cut cutouts that this boot required. For reference, we examined lots of period originals, and developed a lattice pattern that fits some of the most popular options from the time period.
Because button boots have such a specific fit, we also were determined to release this boot in both B and D width. Luckily, the hardest part of that process was behind us, as we had developed Edith in B and D width already. With some fine tuning and a few rounds of testing, we were able to develop a shaft for Cleo with functioning buttons that fit our requirements for both size bands. The buttons are mounted on elastic for extra adjustability, and the tabs the buttons are mounted on have some extra room in case the wearer wants to have them moved.
For colors, we went with an assortment of gorgeous smooth leathers that meet a variety of needs. Black and black cherry (a rich, deep red) are great for costuming versatility, and are true classic choices. Ivory is, of course, wonderful for bridal- in fact, historical brides wore ivory boots just like these as wedding shoes! Ivory also makes a great choice for lighter, spring and summer Edwardian ensembles. Ditto with our lovely pink version- and both of these colors would be fabulous with Lolita co-ords. The pale gold colorway is so special. It’s perfectly festive and subtle at the same time. Plus, it’s historically accurate. The colors look wonderful individually and as a collection! We are thrilled with how Cleo turned out, and we simply cannot wait to see them being worn by our community.
Gloria is a companion to Cleo. While our French spool heel is wonderfully comfortable, some folks just need a lower option. Gloria was developed to provide just that. A low, stable Cuban heel, and our ever-popular Paris last were a natural choice for a shoe to go with Cleo. Like with Cleo, we knew this shoe had to incorporate the openwork cutouts and straps that were so popular at the time.
We examined lots of period originals when designing our cutout pattern for Gloria; there is a huge variety of different patterns and designs for these types of shoes. We were also largely inspired by a pair of antique shoes we found from the late 19-teens/early 1920s, with three functional button straps and curvaceous cutouts.
An assortment of shoes from the 1900s-1920s with elements we wanted to incorporate into Gloria- strappy cutouts, openwork, button straps, an almond toe, and a Cuban heel.
The real beauty of Gloria is that in addition to being very aesthetically attractive, it’s also tremendously versatile in a number of ways. Gloria comes in both B and D width, so it fits a wide variety of sizing needs. As for historical accuracy, this shoe could pair with vintage outfits just as well as it could pair with late Victorian costumes. For those who want to get one pair of shoes to wear everywhere, these are a terrific option. Like Cleo, Gloria comes in a number of lovely colors. Black and walnut are classic, everyday colors. Ivory is perfect for bridal and lighter-colored outfits, and pale gold once again provides a festive, historically accurate, and special option.
Now, on to Hedy. This shoe is really something. Hedy was born as we encountered several shoes with openwork lattice cutouts over the vamp in our research on 1930s evening shoes. As anyone who has been with us for awhile knows, we love 1930s shoes at American Duchess. There is so much artistic inspiration and innovation to be found in footwear from this decade! We thought a 1930s evening shoe, resplendent in rich colors and details, would make a perfect third with Cleo and Gloria.
These 1930s slingbacks from the Shoe Icons museum are lovely examples of how 1930s evening footwear utilized metallic leathers. Plus, they each have stylish Spanish heels, just like Hedy.
1930s eveningwear often features metallic leathers, fabulous colored silk, and lots of decoration. We decided to combine these elements to create Hedy. For the laser-cut latticework, heel, upper edges and slingback, we went with metallic leathers. For the insert on the upper sides, we picked real silk in rich, dimensional colors. We also made a version that is all smooth-leather, with a mixed metal silver-and-gold colorway. The end result is so evocative of the 1930s and spectacularly beautiful.
Slingbacks and Spanish heels were very popular in the 1930s, and our catalogue was a bit sparse in slingbacks. So, it was just a natural choice. To give Hedy its especially 1930s silhouette, we developed a brand-new 3.25″/8.25 cm Spanish heel based on some originals in our collection. It’s so elegant, and quite comfortable as well! Hedy is completed with an unsealed leather sole, which is so supple and luxe. You won’t believe how splendid these shoes look when highlighted by candlelight, or in the glimmer of the twilight sun.
There you have it- the design process for our Skeleton Collection, and a glimpse into how we brought these shoes to life!
The Skeleton Collection is available for 15% off each pair when you pre-order by October 26 in our U.S and U.K/EU stores. All you have to do is pick which ones your heart desires!
Pre-Order is Open
October 17-26
15% Discount Per Pair
AmericanDuchess.com
