A Little History of 1950s Elasticated Mules

Have you laid eyes on our fabulous new Grace Vintage Mules yet? These glamorous mules from our Vintage Vegas collection are some of the most distinctive vintage reproduction shoes we’ve ever made at American Duchess. With their iconic elasticated insoles, variety of period-accurate uppers, and unique, custom, etched clear heel, Grace is the 1950s shoe to beat (if we do say so ourselves).


Vintage enthusiasts have probably noted by now that Grace is based on the iconic 1950s mules that helped define mid-century fashion. During our design journey while making Grace, we had a great time diving into research on shoes like this. We thought it only right to share a bit of history about these lovely shoes!

Ladies’ footwear in the 1950s- particularly evening shoes- got slinkier and sexier as the decade went on. Narrow straps, thin stiletto heels, and decorative features like metallic, animal prints, and rhinestones were particularly trendy. This was in line with fashion as a whole at the time; hyperfemininity and formality are hallmarks of 1950s womenswear, with emphasis on impeccable styling and grooming. With this came more boundary-pushing on the more sensual side of fashion, with regards to femininity and the bodily form.

Mules had, by that point, existed for hundreds of years, and had come in and out of fashion in varying capacities in different cultures and societies around the globe. Just like in the 18th century (think Fragonard’s The Swing), mules in 1950s fashion were imbued with sensuality- they were historically used as boudoir shoes, after all. Celebrity culture helped popularize wearing mules outside of the home in the 1950s as well, with Hollywood icons like Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth, and Ava Gardener (namesake of another style in this collection) donning them in the public eye.

Marilyn Monroe in ivory mules
Famous pin-up girl Ann Miller in satin mules, 1954

There was just one problem- as alluring, sleek, and sensual as they were, mules had a tendency to slip off the foot, especially when the wearer had nylon stockings on. This was especially problematic as heels rose to new heights. Trying to keep one’s shoes on while also having them slap loudly against the foot was a challenge in a time when grace in public was of the utmost importance. Enter Beth Levine.

Beth Levine, the “First Lady of American Shoe Design'”

Ms. Levine was a famous fashion designer in her own right, who is particularly iconic in the world of footwear. She was married to Herbert Levine, and together, they founded the Herbert Levine luxury shoe line in the late 1940s. We may do a post at another time just focusing on Beth Levine herself, as influential and fascinating as she was! Anyway, back to mules; in the early 1950s, Levine came up with an ingenious and simple solution to the Great Mules Problem. She invented a special sort of insole with a narrow elastic panel under the arch of the foot, which created upward tension when worn. This panel ensured that the shoe was held more securely against the foot, even when in motion. In turn, the slapping sounds were mitigated, and the wearer could feel confident that their shoes wouldn’t slip off and fly across the floor. It was a revelation: the spring-o-lator!

Herbert Levine spring-o-lators, from an archived exhibit at the Bellevue Arts Museum.

Levine’s invention was immediately popular, and widely imitated. Innumerable fashion brands were soon releasing mules that had elastic inserts. Aesthetically, these sorts of mules came in all sorts of inspired designs. Clear vinyl uppers, both embellished and plain, were very sensual and quite popular. Exotic animal leathers (both faux and real) were also trendy. Even more popular than these were the ever-so-sexy cheetah-print uppers. And of course, the aforementioned metallics like silver and gold helped push up the glamour factor even higher.


Some lovely vintage leopard print mules that were previously sold by Bombshell Betty Vintage
Spring-o-lators with clear vinyl uppers and rhinestone-encrusted clear heels from the collection at the Shoe Icons Museum
Alden’s catalogue showing several decorative mules, both with and without elasticated insoles.

This vintage Alden’s advertisement shows some variations on decorative heels and uppers.
Our reproduction 1950s etched heel, complete with a rhinestone in the center of the motif. These heels are on all our Grace Mules!

Clear Lucite heels were also widely worn. These heels are works of art within themselves. They were often embellished with engraved or etched decorative motifs, sometimes finished off with rhinestones. When you look closely at a pair of vintage heels like this, you can often see the nails and screws used in the heel construction through the Lucite- it’s cool! These sort of heels are what we knew we had to replicate when making Grace. They’re just so evocative of that sensual 1950s-style mule.

Green leather spring-o-lator elasticated mules from the collection at the Bata Shoe Museum

This iconic representation of mid-century innovation is now emblematic of fashion at that time. While vintage pairs can be found in pretty good condition for collecting, it’s not recommended to actually wear them as the delicate materials have aged and become quite delicate. Luckily for you, now that Grace Vintage Mules are on the scene, you can achieve the look with all the reliability of modern manufacturing!


We are so thrilled to finally share this reproduction mule with you in the form of Grace. Each pair of our Grace Vintage Mules is 15% off full-price when pre-ordered by Nov. 16. Now, will you go for clear vinyl, smooth leather, or cheetah?

Pre-Order is Open
November 7-16
15% Discount Per Pair
AmericanDuchess.com

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