Plannings For A 1740s Scottish Ensemble

I do love me some OL and the show’s been inspiring some Scottish-themed ideas, especially since I “rediscovered” a gorgeous tartan skirt that’s been lurking in my closet the last 11 years, loved but unworn.

I thought I’d put together my take on 1740s Scottish attire (about which I know nothing), with a skirted jacket worn over a stomacher, paired with a wool petticoat, and the accompanying accessories. Here’s my inspiration sketch:
The tartan has come from a skirt I bought in Edinburgh when I was 19. Despite being very very American, way back we have Scottish ancestry, and one of our clans is Morrison. Unfortunately, the shop didn’t have any Morrison skirts, so I got something that was close, which has turned out to be the Gunn tartan.  The lighter fabric here is the Morrison, and the darker is the Gunn:
complete with dog hairs. of course.
Lucky for me, Scottish kilts and skirts are constructed of one uncut length of wool. I unpicked the entire thing, soaked it in vinegar/water to pull the perma-pressed pleats out, and then steam ironed the flat, damp yardage. Now it’s one nice length, ready to be cut for the jacket.
The skirt before I deconstructed it.
Laid out flat. The white circles are where there are moth holes, or small tears/frays in the fabric, so I will cut around those.
I will be using an altered version of the JP Ryan jacket pattern View A/B, which I acquired primarily for the sleeves, armscyes, and winged cuffs (I’m so tired of messing the sleeves and armscyes up *every* time!):
JP Ryan jacket pattern – you can get it here
My inspiration jackets are these:
Casaquin, 2nd quarter of the 18th c., from Galliera Musee de la Mode de la Ville de Paris – via Fripperies & Fobs
The above two are both continental European jackets – you see a lot of this type from Spain – but there is also this one with English origin:
Kerry Taylor Auctions – 1740-45, made of Spitalfields silk – via
Kerry Taylor Auctions – that back cut is gorgeous – via
Here’s another from the Snowshill Wade Costume Collection (National Trust), with origin in France:
1736-40 – click through for the record
Of course, my version won’t be so grand in silk brocade, but I really like the subtlety of the tartan plaid, and I think it will be lovely.

More on this project, the stays and chemise to go under it, and the embroidered stomacher, coming up!

31 Comments

  • AuntieNan

    October 2, 2014 at 7:53 PM

    I ADORE the Spitalfields silk one! And it looks like the CF is on the straight grain, which will make the plaid wrangling easier.
    Terrific project!

    Reply
    • Lauren Stowell

      October 6, 2014 at 10:14 PM

      It does, but I think I'll play with the plaid on the cross grain, to make a cool pattern in back…may or may not work with how the skirts on the jacket then flare. Must test!

      Reply
  • Ellen Duran

    October 2, 2014 at 7:55 PM

    Love the tartan!! I've been wanting to do something plaid for a while but have been super torn as far as era…. I can't wait to see how it turns out!

    Reply
    • Lauren Stowell

      October 6, 2014 at 10:14 PM

      Plaid it wonderful for lots of eras – I have some other plaid I want to make into a 1940s blazer, and a nice plaid skirt of any era is always welcome 🙂

      Reply
  • MrsC (Maryanne)

    October 2, 2014 at 9:06 PM

    How delicious! And those pockets, I adore them. It's those little details that turn something beautiful into something exquisite.

    Reply
  • Decor To Adore

    October 2, 2014 at 10:58 PM

    Then when you tire of this lovely ensemble you can send it on to me!

    In a funny coincidence I also have my clan tartan (Gunn) up on my blog today. But I will be making a pillow. 🙂

    Reply
    • Lauren Stowell

      October 6, 2014 at 10:16 PM

      How interesting! My last name is/was Reeser, but it's an adopted name. I don't know much about the Reese's or Reesers, or even if my Reeser is Scottish or German.

      Reply
  • The Laced Angel

    October 3, 2014 at 12:42 AM

    I'll admit, I'm very much a fan of the full pleated tartan skirts/petticoats that I've been seeing from Outlander and am toying with the idea of making one. Excited to see how this turns out!

    Reply
    • Lauren Stowell

      October 6, 2014 at 10:17 PM

      Tartan petticoats, GO! My skirt for this outfit isn't going to be tartan, just a solid wool, but if I had enough tartan to do the whole gown I would have. There's one dress Claire wears in the Gathering episode that is a full gown of tartan worn with an embroidered stomacher, and its' *gorgeous*

      Reply
  • The Dreaded Seamstress

    October 3, 2014 at 1:13 AM

    Outlander is full of inspiration. I plan to make the gown Claire wore in The Gathering, and I've already acquired a lovely cotton print for the petticoat and stomacher.

    Reply
  • Rachelle

    October 3, 2014 at 8:19 AM

    I suspect there will be a lot of Outlander inspired garments popping up; I'm certainly thinking about it too, especially as I already have the underwear to go with it.

    Reply
  • Unknown

    October 3, 2014 at 4:01 PM

    I am just starting on a few Outlander inspired costumes myself. Unfortunately I am short on plaid at the moment. I don't want to just use any tartan, I want to order my families, but the Fergusson design is not a popular one so it is very expensive. However, if anyone figures out where to purchase the ultimate accessory needed for any Outlander outfit, ie. Jaime Fraser, let me know 😉

    Reply
  • Unknown

    October 3, 2014 at 9:47 PM

    Hi Lauren,
    Well if I can be of any service don't hesitate to let me know. I can't wait to see what you do!
    I am on your blog looking at your riding habit. Thinking Claire…

    All the best!
    Terry Dresbach (Outlander)

    Reply
  • Mutemouia

    June 9, 2016 at 6:08 PM

    Hi Lauren,

    I need your help on this one! I am planning on making a provencal 1740s outfit and I wanted to go for a casaquin as jacket.
    I was wondering if it is possible to wear it with pocket hoops and a quilted petticoat ?

    Thanks in advance, and all the best!
    Patricia.

    Reply
    • Lauren Stowell

      June 9, 2016 at 8:03 PM

      Hi Mutemouia – Yup, you can wear a jacket with pocket hoops and a quilted petticoat. There are tons of casaquin jackets from this time period that were worn over side hoops, an quilted petticoats were worn for all of the 18th c.

      Reply

Leave a Reply