Thursday, October 2, 2014

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Plannings For A 1740s Scottish Ensemble

I do love me some OL and the show's been inspiring some Scottish-themed ideas, especially since I "rediscovered" a gorgeous tartan skirt that's been lurking in my closet the last 11 years, loved but unworn.

I thought I'd put together my take on 1740s Scottish attire (about which I know nothing), with a skirted jacket worn over a stomacher, paired with a wool petticoat, and the accompanying accessories. Here's my inspiration sketch:


The tartan has come from a skirt I bought in Edinburgh when I was 19. Despite being very very American, way back we have Scottish ancestry, and one of our clans is Morrison. Unfortunately, the shop didn't have any Morrison skirts, so I got something that was close, which has turned out to be the Gunn tartan.  The lighter fabric here is the Morrison, and the darker is the Gunn:

complete with dog hairs. of course.
Lucky for me, Scottish kilts and skirts are constructed of one uncut length of wool. I unpicked the entire thing, soaked it in vinegar/water to pull the perma-pressed pleats out, and then steam ironed the flat, damp yardage. Now it's one nice length, ready to be cut for the jacket.
The skirt before I deconstructed it.
Laid out flat. The white circles are where there are moth holes, or small tears/frays in the fabric, so I will cut around those.
I will be using an altered version of the JP Ryan jacket pattern View A/B, which I acquired primarily for the sleeves, armscyes, and winged cuffs (I'm so tired of messing the sleeves and armscyes up *every* time!):
JP Ryan jacket pattern - you can get it here

My inspiration jackets are these:

Casaquin, 2nd quarter of the 18th c., from Galliera Musee de la Mode de la Ville de Paris - via Fripperies & Fobs
The above two are both continental European jackets - you see a lot of this type from Spain - but there is also this one with English origin:

Kerry Taylor Auctions - 1740-45, made of Spitalfields silk - via
Kerry Taylor Auctions - that back cut is gorgeous - via
Here's another from the Snowshill Wade Costume Collection (National Trust), with origin in France:

1736-40 - click through for the record

Of course, my version won't be so grand in silk brocade, but I really like the subtlety of the tartan plaid, and I think it will be lovely.

More on this project, the stays and chemise to go under it, and the embroidered stomacher, coming up!

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30 comments:

  1. I just recently started planning my own version! I'm really interested in seeing what you come up with!

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  2. I ADORE the Spitalfields silk one! And it looks like the CF is on the straight grain, which will make the plaid wrangling easier.
    Terrific project!

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    1. It does, but I think I'll play with the plaid on the cross grain, to make a cool pattern in back...may or may not work with how the skirts on the jacket then flare. Must test!

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  3. Love the tartan!! I've been wanting to do something plaid for a while but have been super torn as far as era.... I can't wait to see how it turns out!

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    1. Plaid it wonderful for lots of eras - I have some other plaid I want to make into a 1940s blazer, and a nice plaid skirt of any era is always welcome :-)

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  4. How delicious! And those pockets, I adore them. It's those little details that turn something beautiful into something exquisite.

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    1. I love the little pockets on the jacket too - I think they add just that little extra touch :-)

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  5. Then when you tire of this lovely ensemble you can send it on to me!

    In a funny coincidence I also have my clan tartan (Gunn) up on my blog today. But I will be making a pillow. :)

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  6. Sorry, I forgot that my blog name, Decor To Adore, comes up so now I am signing my full name...Laura Ingalls Gunn.

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  7. This is awesome! I am planning an Outlander outfit, too! I'm trying to use my family's Tartan. It's "Rees".

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    1. How interesting! My last name is/was Reeser, but it's an adopted name. I don't know much about the Reese's or Reesers, or even if my Reeser is Scottish or German.

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  8. I'll admit, I'm very much a fan of the full pleated tartan skirts/petticoats that I've been seeing from Outlander and am toying with the idea of making one. Excited to see how this turns out!

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    1. Tartan petticoat group! Can we have a blog badge for this?

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    2. Tartan petticoats, GO! My skirt for this outfit isn't going to be tartan, just a solid wool, but if I had enough tartan to do the whole gown I would have. There's one dress Claire wears in the Gathering episode that is a full gown of tartan worn with an embroidered stomacher, and its' *gorgeous*

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  9. Outlander is full of inspiration. I plan to make the gown Claire wore in The Gathering, and I've already acquired a lovely cotton print for the petticoat and stomacher.

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    1. That's my favorite gown of the entire series so far!

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  10. I suspect there will be a lot of Outlander inspired garments popping up; I'm certainly thinking about it too, especially as I already have the underwear to go with it.

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    1. I hope so! I get a kick out of seeing trends in costuming effected by movies and television shows.

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  11. I am just starting on a few Outlander inspired costumes myself. Unfortunately I am short on plaid at the moment. I don't want to just use any tartan, I want to order my families, but the Fergusson design is not a popular one so it is very expensive. However, if anyone figures out where to purchase the ultimate accessory needed for any Outlander outfit, ie. Jaime Fraser, let me know ;)

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  12. ....well remember all you have to do is just...heheheh... "Make it work"... heh.. :)

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    1. I need a Tim Gunn bobblehead for my new cutting table.

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  13. Hi Lauren,
    Well if I can be of any service don't hesitate to let me know. I can't wait to see what you do!
    I am on your blog looking at your riding habit. Thinking Claire…

    All the best!
    Terry Dresbach (Outlander)

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    1. Ooo, Claire in powder blue? LOVE. Heck, I love Claire in everything. She's gorgeous!

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  14. Hi Lauren,

    I need your help on this one! I am planning on making a provencal 1740s outfit and I wanted to go for a casaquin as jacket.
    I was wondering if it is possible to wear it with pocket hoops and a quilted petticoat ?

    Thanks in advance, and all the best!
    Patricia.

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    1. Hi Mutemouia - Yup, you can wear a jacket with pocket hoops and a quilted petticoat. There are tons of casaquin jackets from this time period that were worn over side hoops, an quilted petticoats were worn for all of the 18th c.

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