I do love me some OL and the show’s been inspiring some Scottish-themed ideas, especially since I “rediscovered” a gorgeous tartan skirt that’s been lurking in my closet the last 11 years, loved but unworn.
I thought I’d put together my take on 1740s Scottish attire (about which I know nothing), with a skirted jacket worn over a stomacher, paired with a wool petticoat, and the accompanying accessories. Here’s my inspiration sketch:
The tartan has come from a skirt I bought in Edinburgh when I was 19. Despite being very very American, way back we have Scottish ancestry, and one of our clans is Morrison. Unfortunately, the shop didn’t have any Morrison skirts, so I got something that was close, which has turned out to be the Gunn tartan. The lighter fabric here is the Morrison, and the darker is the Gunn:
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| complete with dog hairs. of course. |
Lucky for me, Scottish kilts and skirts are constructed of one uncut length of wool. I unpicked the entire thing, soaked it in vinegar/water to pull the perma-pressed pleats out, and then steam ironed the flat, damp yardage. Now it’s one nice length, ready to be cut for the jacket.
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| The skirt before I deconstructed it. |
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| Laid out flat. The white circles are where there are moth holes, or small tears/frays in the fabric, so I will cut around those. |
I will be using an altered version of the JP Ryan jacket pattern View A/B, which I acquired primarily for the sleeves, armscyes, and winged cuffs (I’m so tired of messing the sleeves and armscyes up *every* time!):
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| JP Ryan jacket pattern – you can get it here |
My inspiration jackets are these:
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| Casaquin, 2nd quarter of the 18th c., from Galliera Musee de la Mode de la Ville de Paris – via Fripperies & Fobs |
The above two are both continental European jackets – you see a lot of this type from Spain – but there is also this one with English origin:
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| Kerry Taylor Auctions – 1740-45, made of Spitalfields silk – via |
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| Kerry Taylor Auctions – that back cut is gorgeous – via |
Here’s another from the Snowshill Wade Costume Collection (National Trust), with origin in France:
| 1736-40 – click through for the record |
Of course, my version won’t be so grand in silk brocade, but I really like the subtlety of the tartan plaid, and I think it will be lovely.
More on this project, the stays and chemise to go under it, and the embroidered stomacher, coming up!
31 Comments
Paige P
October 2, 2014 at 6:14 PMI just recently started planning my own version! I'm really interested in seeing what you come up with!
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:13 PMI look forward to seeing yours too!
AuntieNan
October 2, 2014 at 7:53 PMI ADORE the Spitalfields silk one! And it looks like the CF is on the straight grain, which will make the plaid wrangling easier.
Terrific project!
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:14 PMIt does, but I think I'll play with the plaid on the cross grain, to make a cool pattern in back…may or may not work with how the skirts on the jacket then flare. Must test!
Ellen Duran
October 2, 2014 at 7:55 PMLove the tartan!! I've been wanting to do something plaid for a while but have been super torn as far as era…. I can't wait to see how it turns out!
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:14 PMPlaid it wonderful for lots of eras – I have some other plaid I want to make into a 1940s blazer, and a nice plaid skirt of any era is always welcome 🙂
MrsC (Maryanne)
October 2, 2014 at 9:06 PMHow delicious! And those pockets, I adore them. It's those little details that turn something beautiful into something exquisite.
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:15 PMI love the little pockets on the jacket too – I think they add just that little extra touch 🙂
Stephanie Lynn
October 2, 2014 at 9:36 PMOh, so yummy! 😀
Decor To Adore
October 2, 2014 at 10:58 PMThen when you tire of this lovely ensemble you can send it on to me!
In a funny coincidence I also have my clan tartan (Gunn) up on my blog today. But I will be making a pillow. 🙂
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:15 PMI guess it's a popular one!
Decor To Adore
October 2, 2014 at 11:01 PMSorry, I forgot that my blog name, Decor To Adore, comes up so now I am signing my full name…Laura Ingalls Gunn.
Little Mothball
October 2, 2014 at 11:44 PMThis is awesome! I am planning an Outlander outfit, too! I'm trying to use my family's Tartan. It's "Rees".
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:16 PMHow interesting! My last name is/was Reeser, but it's an adopted name. I don't know much about the Reese's or Reesers, or even if my Reeser is Scottish or German.
The Laced Angel
October 3, 2014 at 12:42 AMI'll admit, I'm very much a fan of the full pleated tartan skirts/petticoats that I've been seeing from Outlander and am toying with the idea of making one. Excited to see how this turns out!
Little Mothball
October 3, 2014 at 3:25 AMTartan petticoat group! Can we have a blog badge for this?
The Laced Angel
October 3, 2014 at 6:16 AMWell, get to making one!
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:17 PMTartan petticoats, GO! My skirt for this outfit isn't going to be tartan, just a solid wool, but if I had enough tartan to do the whole gown I would have. There's one dress Claire wears in the Gathering episode that is a full gown of tartan worn with an embroidered stomacher, and its' *gorgeous*
The Dreaded Seamstress
October 3, 2014 at 1:13 AMOutlander is full of inspiration. I plan to make the gown Claire wore in The Gathering, and I've already acquired a lovely cotton print for the petticoat and stomacher.
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:18 PMThat's my favorite gown of the entire series so far!
Rachelle
October 3, 2014 at 8:19 AMI suspect there will be a lot of Outlander inspired garments popping up; I'm certainly thinking about it too, especially as I already have the underwear to go with it.
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:18 PMI hope so! I get a kick out of seeing trends in costuming effected by movies and television shows.
Unknown
October 3, 2014 at 4:01 PMI am just starting on a few Outlander inspired costumes myself. Unfortunately I am short on plaid at the moment. I don't want to just use any tartan, I want to order my families, but the Fergusson design is not a popular one so it is very expensive. However, if anyone figures out where to purchase the ultimate accessory needed for any Outlander outfit, ie. Jaime Fraser, let me know 😉
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:18 PMMailOrderScotsmen.com
Abby
October 3, 2014 at 5:07 PM….well remember all you have to do is just…heheheh… "Make it work"… heh.. 🙂
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:19 PMI need a Tim Gunn bobblehead for my new cutting table.
Unknown
October 3, 2014 at 9:47 PMHi Lauren,
Well if I can be of any service don't hesitate to let me know. I can't wait to see what you do!
I am on your blog looking at your riding habit. Thinking Claire…
All the best!
Terry Dresbach (Outlander)
Lauren Stowell
October 6, 2014 at 10:19 PMOoo, Claire in powder blue? LOVE. Heck, I love Claire in everything. She's gorgeous!
Mutemouia
June 9, 2016 at 6:08 PMHi Lauren,
I need your help on this one! I am planning on making a provencal 1740s outfit and I wanted to go for a casaquin as jacket.
I was wondering if it is possible to wear it with pocket hoops and a quilted petticoat ?
Thanks in advance, and all the best!
Patricia.
Lauren Stowell
June 9, 2016 at 8:03 PMHi Mutemouia – Yup, you can wear a jacket with pocket hoops and a quilted petticoat. There are tons of casaquin jackets from this time period that were worn over side hoops, an quilted petticoats were worn for all of the 18th c.
Unknown
May 30, 2018 at 9:28 PMDid this ever get made?