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| 1780-81 jacket - Glasgow Museums Collection - 1932.51.o |
January is Costume A-D-D time. A whole new year lies ahead and we are all brimming with project ideas. Some I've even started and have abandoned for the time being as the new shiny ideas and events crop up.
Latest on my *grabby-hands* list is this amazing 1780-1781 Scottish jacket. What I love about this piece is that it is a bit weird: it is made like a polonaise in the front with loose open edges and a false waistcoat...but it has a sacque back.
The jacket is made from hand-corded linen, lined in linen. It was worn by Mary McDowall, the wife of George Houston of Johnstone Castle in Renfrewshire, Scotland, and is currently held in the Glasgow Museums Collection.
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| My drawings and notes trying to work out how this jacket was made. I saw Brooke's photos after these sketches so now know there is a tuck in the front piece near the side back seam that helps shape the front of the bodice, typical of polonaise construction. |
I plan to make a version of this polo-sacque jacket in printed cotton lined in linen and will likely wear it with the green quilted satin petticoat. We do have an event to which I plan to wear this Scottish jacket, but I can't announce it quite yet. ;-)
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Once again, proof that stitchers did just about everything! Every time I hear or read, "That was not done," pretty soon I see that very thing. Love this jacket!
ReplyDeleteHaha, yes, it's one of those "rules of the universe" in historical costuming. There are lots of historic dress X-files, we call them, things that are weird or atypical by the current definitions. But, of course, understanding of dress and how it was made and worn, is an ever evolving field of study. What was considered atypical 10 years ago is considered common now, just with more and more primary sources coming to light. :-)
DeleteLooks like a comfy riding coat to me, but then I always look at clothing as if I'm going to wear it riding; the quilted petticoat wouldn't work well in this case. Anna
ReplyDeleteIt may have been worn riding - we can't know for certain. The petticoat likely belonged to the same woman but it's conjecture whether these two garments were worn together or not.
DeleteI don't know all the lingo of historical costumers, which I've followed for about 2 years. What is Costume A-D-D time? Is it something to do with Costume College?
ReplyDeleteHaha, sorry! Costume Attention Deficit Disorder - or basically, when you are inspired with so many costuming ideas that you can't stick to just one.
DeleteI knew this dress looked familiar - I saw it at the Kelvingrove museum in Glasgow this summer.
ReplyDeleteOh gosh, I would love a pattern for this. Lovely jacket, thanks so much for your deconstruction. I'm excited to see yours made up!
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