Have you perused the Heroines by Elena Kanagy-Loux collection yet? This unique and fantastical collaboration collection with Elena (@erenanaomi) features three beautiful new shoes named after inspirational early-modern women artists. One of these artists is Isabella Catanea Parasole, who inspired the laser-cut lace on the Isabella Chopines.
Parasole is a fascinating historical figure. This 16th/17th-c. Roman engraver published multiple printed pattern books (amongst other achievements), which contained patterns and designs for lace and embroidery. During a time period where men dominated these industries and spaces, Parasole’s needlework patterns truly gave form to lace at a time when lace-making techniques were exploding in popularity across Europe. Her designs were intricate and simultaneously organic and geometric. This masterful composition demonstrates her ability to incorporate inspiration from the natural world with abstract design. In short, she was very talented and very cool.
If you have been following along with our content about the Heroines collection, then you have already heard us all waxing poetic about crafts like lace as political and cultural artifacts- not just domestic hobbies! Crafts like lace-making, engraving, and painting, and publishing say a lot about gender, value, and labor. Parasole’s work symbolizes these dynamics beautifully. The insight her pattern books give us into what women made, how they made it, and how it was viewed is so important to our understanding of history. Just think about it- every page had to be designed, cut, and pressed, one plate at a time. It’s sort of like how bobbin lace is made one twist at a time, or how needle lace is one stitch at a time. Can you tell that we’re super into this?
Two of Parasole’s lace pattern books include Studio delle Virtuose Dame (c. 1597) and Teatro delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne (c. 1616). Studio delle Virtuose Dame (“A Study for Virtuous Ladies”), is a collection of patterns designed for use by aristocratic and upper-middle-class women. So, these patterns were meant to be reproduced. Spechio delle Virtuose Donne is the first full-length pattern book to be designed by a woman.
Two decades later, the super-ambitious Teatro delle Nobili et Virtuose Don (“The Theater of Noble and Virtuous Women”) contains over 40 designs for lace-making patterns, each design more stunning and intricate than the last. Elena has even reproduced one of these for a project!
Some of the patterns in Teatro delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne are for reticella lace. Reticella is a type of cutwork and drawn work needle lace that is characterized by geometric and concentric patterns, like squares, circles, arches, and scallops.
A reticella lace cover from c. 1600-1630, in the collection at the Smithsonian.
Reticella lace, along with the patterns on antique examples, inspired our pattern design for the intricate laser-cut lace design on the Isabella Chopines. Full circle moment! (See what we did there?)
Parasole’s work is an intersection of artistry, craft, labor, and function. Something we love is that she signed her work. Centuries later, her designs are marked by her name- and they can still be utilized to create something tangible that you can hold in your hands. Isn’t that amazing?
If you’re not quite prepared to reproduce a piece of hand-made lace from one of Parasole’s pattern books, you’re in luck- pre-order a pair of Isabella Chopines instead, and you can don a Venetian renaissance shoe bedecked with Parasole-inspired beauty.
The Heroines by Elena Kanagy-Loux collection is 15% off each pair on pre-order through June 1.
Pre-Order is Open
May 16 – June 1
15% Discount Per Pair
AmericanDuchess.com
