Originally I had planned *not* to make a big ole honkin' bustle, but I can see now why it is a necessity. The big huge skirt of a well-trained gown needs support beyond just the petticoat. On my dress form now, I have a bum pillow, a wire collapsible bustle, a slim petticoat with flounces at the hem, my 18th c. flounced petticoat, and the trained bustle petticoat. All that to support the skirt on top, but it's no good - it's TOO much! The layers are so thick that the waist is no longer elegant and slim.
Enter the lobster tail.
|This is an old project, but a good example of "bustle slump" - the back is dipping inward and not flowing out nicely, because there is no support back there. Dang... this thing is ugly...|
Here is a bustle from The Met that I've been eyeballing this morning...
|The Met, 1880s - a great example. This one has a ruffle that buttons on mid-way up. The waistband ties at front, and the skirting at the sides also tie across the front.|
|The Met, 1880s. A better view of the ruffle where it buttons on, and also how the hoops squeeze in halfway down.|
|The Met, 1883|
|The Met, early 1870s|
|The Met, 1885|