|Ikea does it again - Ingmarie curtains >>|
After completing all the book projects, Abby and I can finally settle into share-able projects. Both of us are mad for the 1790s after studying and re-creating various pieces for the '90s Round Gown chapter, so we've decided to explore further.
I'm making an open robe with a gathered bodice and long sleeves, to be worn over an embroidered white-work petticoat.
|My sketch for the back of the gown.|
I have three new pieces to make for this costume - the corset, petticoat, and gown itself. The corset was a quick project - two layers of linen with very little boning, lacing in front. I based my design on garments shown in Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century (the KCI book), Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques by Jill Salen, and Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh.
|My simple two-piece pattern for the '90s corset|
|World, 1789 - "The French Corsett"|
"Corsettes about six inches long, and a buffon tucker of two inches high, are now the only defensive paraphernalia of our fashionable belles, between the necklace and the apron strings" - The Times, 1795
Interestingly, many of the 1790s corsets were still to-the-waist and many still had tabs. In experimenting with short and long stays, I've found that the waist length actually effects the bust and how it is raised, supported, or separated (later on). It's boob engineering - the boning in the front of 1790s and early Regency corsets cantilevers off the stomach at the bottom to stay close to the sternum at the top.
|A quick try-on. The bust is low and full and round, unlike the high, compressed busts of earlier and later silhouettes.|
|The corset is bones at the center and side back all the way down into the "tail."|
|Stays, late 18th c., Philadelphia Museum of Art, 1998-162-50|
|My '90s stays complete and laid out flat. They're not perfect, but they get the job done.|