Sometimes it’s really does pay off to just press through the rough patches and finish a costume, even if you hate every stitch along the way.
I’m glad I finished this one. I spent a lot of time fixing mistakes (and some I had to just live with). This gown is by no means constructed how it should be, but after all has been said and done, it does fit me, and it looks pretty darn good!
The fabric is very drapey. I can see that taffeta would be the better choice for my next Francaise |
This past weekend, I finished adding the silver trim, made engageantes, and reworked the sleeves:
Two kinds of antique lace make up the engageantes |
The engageantes, or sleeve ruffles, are made from two different antique laces. The bottom tier needed an extension to allow it to fall below both the second tier of lace and the flounces on the gown itself. I did this in just plain muslin, which worked very well. I’m very happy with how the fluffles came out…
The bottom tier of lace was mounted on the edge of this crescent-shaped piece of muslin. The second tier of lace just above it, and overlapping, the the straight top edge of the muslin was gathered into the band. |
The finished engageantes are independent of the gown – they’re just tacked in and can be removed to be used on other gowns in the future. |
In my last post, the sleeves were too tight, and made my arms look like sausages. I had constructed the sleeves incorrectly, using a sleeve pattern with a front seam, from an Anglaise, and set them with a later method as well. All this made me particularly unhappy with this part of the gown, so I ripped the sleeves off, and cut some rather large gussets in.
The large gusset set in by hand, under each arm. HUGE difference in fit and look, and you can’t see it at all when the dress is on. |
Re-setting was tricky, but came out pretty okay. They look at least a little more like they’re supposed to, and most importantly they fit nice and loose.
There are still some things I can add to this dress to take it even further – bows on the sleeves, and a flounce on the petticoat. I have just barely enough fabric left to make a self-fabric flounce (if I piece it), or I might continue to quest on Etsy for the perfect piece of silver net lace that won’t break the bank. For today, though, and for the photo shoot on Wednesday, this piece is done!
31 Comments
Shirlee Fassell
February 10, 2014 at 9:51 PMLooks lovely!!
Unknown
February 10, 2014 at 10:00 PMBeautiful!!!!!!!!!
Susan
February 10, 2014 at 10:15 PMAnd I love it, too!
Vienna La Rouge
February 10, 2014 at 10:59 PMThat turned out absolutely stunning!!
xoxo
Kendra
February 10, 2014 at 11:17 PMSuper pretty!! And hey, a gusset is period!
Lauren Stowell
February 15, 2014 at 7:22 PMHeck yeah!
Kura Carpenter
February 10, 2014 at 11:29 PMperfection, a delight to behold 🙂
Anonymous
February 11, 2014 at 12:08 AMLooks gorgeous!
Katherine Caron-Greig
February 11, 2014 at 12:22 AMBeautiful! And making things work is definitely period 🙂
SarahG
February 11, 2014 at 12:51 AMIt looks gorgeous! Isn't it an amazing feeling that you get when you've finished a complex project that you thought you'd never make it through? You did a fantastic job!
Lauren Stowell
February 15, 2014 at 7:23 PMYes! This one has been haunting my workroom for a year or so now, and it almost seems kindof weird and lonely in here with this gown done and stashed away in the closet. It's like, "gosh, what now?" (limitless possibilities!)
Rajendora
February 11, 2014 at 1:33 AMIt's just gorgeous!
bauhausfrau
February 11, 2014 at 3:40 AMVery pretty, I love that fabric!
Cindy Joy
February 11, 2014 at 3:49 AMIt looks gorgeous! I can't wait to see the pictures from the photo shoot. You did a fantastic job. And those gussets under the arm? Totally a period solution to having cut it too small. There are all kinds of examples. You were just trying to be more authentic.
Lauren Stowell
February 15, 2014 at 7:25 PMThanks! I am thankful for the gussets. If you ever get to the Marjorie Russel out in Carson, the yellow 18th c. dress they have there has some gussets under the arms. They're not as big as these, but same idea. It's a cool gown, and a cool collection, if you are in need of costume research.
Thread-Head
February 11, 2014 at 4:38 AMThat color is amazing! You look wonderful.
Rachelle
February 11, 2014 at 7:47 AMhttp://www.wholeport.com/item/a0i_silver-color-metallic-lace-trim-1-yard.html might work for your silver lace; I get most of my lace through Wholeport.com
Lauren Stowell
February 15, 2014 at 7:26 PMThanks for the link! I'll check it out.
Augustintytär
February 11, 2014 at 12:26 PMIt's gorgeous!! I can't wait to see the photos from Wednesday.
ravenswinghats
February 11, 2014 at 1:11 PMAbsolutely stunning!
Steph
February 11, 2014 at 2:43 PMGorgeous! Well done! Sometimes you do just have to barrel through to the end; and sometimes these end up being the projects we're proudest of, even if they're not perfect.
Lauren Stowell
February 15, 2014 at 7:26 PMI agree!
Mary xo
February 11, 2014 at 4:42 PMGorgeous!!
Unknown
February 11, 2014 at 9:05 PMHi Lauren, I haven't posted here before, but I follow your blog with interest. I am not a costumer but I adore the fashions from bygone eras and I am fascinated by the way you faithfully recreate them. I think this gown is your best yet! It looks like it belongs in the MET. Well done!
Lauren Stowell
February 15, 2014 at 7:27 PMOh my gosh, thank you so much!
Anna
February 11, 2014 at 9:34 PMSo so pretty…you are such an inspiration 🙂
Mutemouia
February 12, 2014 at 6:40 PMThat's a gorgeous work !!!!
fixitfaerie
February 12, 2014 at 9:18 PMIt is beautiful. And the shoes are perfect.
Lauren Stowell
February 15, 2014 at 7:27 PMThank you so much, everyone!
Anneliese
February 19, 2014 at 9:50 PMDear Lauren,
I second every compliment!! We all are so happy you persevered because the result is (as expected) absolutely AMAZING!!
Keep inspiring us,
Anneliese 🙂
Dartanyan
April 2, 2020 at 2:36 AMdelicious!
how many yards of the silver edging did you use?