In Progress: Late 16th Century Doublet

Every once in awhile I go meandering off into other centuries.  My love of costuming started with Elizabethan, and it is still a period I adore, though I seldom costume for it anymore (a pity, really).  Of course, with Valhalla Renaissance Festival coming up, uh, next weekend, I realized I’ve been wearing the same thing for three years.  I mean, I do *love* my red jacket, but isn’t it time for something new?

Sketching out some ideas

So this meant, of course, started a new project just before moving house, and making something that looks rather similar to the jacket its meant to be replacing.  Ah, whatever – it’s an entirely stash-made project, and when I find decently-priced velvet ribbon I will trim to noodles out of this doublet, but for now, here’s what’s going on…

A more pinned-down idea

The pattern is a mash-up of several Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620 examples, and the women’s doublet bodice from The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress.

Janet Arnold doublet bodice, from “Patterns of Fashion” 
Doublet bodice from “The Tudor Tailor,” which fit my measurements with just a small reduction in the bust

The fabric is a mystery “wool” -ish, probably acrylic, red and black stripe.  I’ve interlined with cotton osnaburg, and lined with muslin.

The sleeves will be black velveteen, just plain shaped sleeves, though I’m temped to do some slashing or…something.  The hanging sleeves, if I make it that far, will be lined in pinked taffeta, cannibalized from a soon-to-be-replaced ivory 18th century petticoat.

Hanging sleeves – these are late, 1610-20, but I love the style, and the pinked silk peeking out from inside.  I tend to go for late styles anyway, and I’m not bothered by it, when half the Faire is wearing 18th century.

There is some lightweight boning in the bodice, and also used to stiffen to rather large wings.  I also plan to do some pad-stitching on the peplums, as they’re a bit floppy.  This in-progress picture is lacking the collar, but otherwise the most basic bodice wearable (yay!)

Getting there – I have a blue kirtle and this yellow skirt to wear with it, though I would much prefer a black silk skirt at some point.


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