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So far so good – and sleeves that FIT! |
This project might have been quick if I hadn’t spend whole chunks of days not doing a darn thing. At least when I do get my lazy arse moving, the Indienne gown seems to be going together rather nicely.
Yesterday I thought to finish it. I fitted the sleeves over my mannequin’s shoulders (a good indication that they will fit my shoulders), and applied the shoulder straps by hand. I turned up the edge of the bodice, in preparation for the skirt, but the skirt has turned out to be harder than I thought.
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Fitting the sleeve over the shoulder and basting in place |
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Applying the shoulder strap on-the-form. |
I know, it’s a skirt, it’s not supposed to be hard. I’m trying a new-to-me technique shown in Patterns of Fashion 1: 1660-1860 and Period Costume for Stage & Screen wherein the skirt is leveled at the hem by adjusting it at the top, using elastic tied around the waist. It didn’t work so great for me, but I did manage to scribble out something of a curve at the top edge, and compared it to one of the skirts on the Vandyked gown in POF, which is also shaped at the top:
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From Patterns of Fashion, the shape of the skirt on the Vandyked dress (pg 42). |
The shaped top of the skirt panels seems to be working, but working the pleats at the back, which has a squared-off tail instead of a point, was troublesome, and I ended up just ripping out the whole thing, and will re-pleat it tonight, using the method of pleating straight across the waist at back, then turning down the extra inside – it’s shown on the inspiration dress schematic in Costume in Detail here:
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Reference image in Costume in Detail, pg 69. The bottom left sketch shows the inside of the bodice, with the extra fullness of the skirt turned down. |
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The back of my bodice, awaiting the skirt. |
So maybe it will be done *tonight* !
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12 Comments
Laurie
September 18, 2012 at 9:19 PMOh this is gorgeous. I can't wait for my fabric to arrive. I cheated and bought yardage instead of the curtains. I have a hate hate relationship with unpicking seams š
Lauren R
September 19, 2012 at 8:05 AMI hear that! I left the hems from the curtains on for the hem of the skirt – bad, I know! lol
bauhausfrau
September 19, 2012 at 12:14 AMThe bodice fit looks spot on! I always do the technique in the Costume in Detail when attaching skirts to gowns, it's just easier for me.
I do use the Hunnisett method for petticoats with border decoration though, like the embroidered Target curtain petticoat.
Lauren R
September 19, 2012 at 8:06 AMI hadn't tried it before, for some weird reason. I tried it tonight and all seems to be okay, so yay š
Angela Reichelderfer
September 19, 2012 at 12:40 AMThe fabric is beautiful – I can't wait to see it finished!
Anonymous
September 19, 2012 at 1:14 AMI just managed the straight across pleats on a doll dress, and it looks almost as good as yours!
Lauren R
September 19, 2012 at 8:07 AMprobably way better than mine! mine's messy at best, lol
Unknown
September 19, 2012 at 5:37 AMOooooh, it looks great!
Rubina Scarletti
September 19, 2012 at 1:40 PMI really like the shoulder strap, it creates a nice smooth clean line. It's turning out great!
Unknown
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Zach
September 21, 2012 at 7:52 PMIt looks great! You blow me away! I can't wait to see the finished product.
Francine
September 25, 2012 at 5:34 PMThis is beautiful..I'm about to attempt my first. I've just started the fitting muslin. Do you have a bum roll under the petticoat? I just made one, but not at all happy with the shape.