"Maybe she's born with it...maybe it's beef grease pomatum." 1775 (Reynolds) Jane detail |
Along with cork pads and loads of human, goat, or horse hair extensions, hair styles were "set" with pomatum.
"Pardon me, but do you have any bear grease pomatum?" 1780 (Reynolds) Ladies Waldegrave |
The stuff was originally made of bear grease, but later used domestic animal fats. One recipe calls for sheep fat, lilly root, benjamin, and storax (the last three are plant materials) mixed together over heat, along with almond paste, and rose water. (source) .
Another recipe, from 1840 (so you know this stuff was still being used!) calls for beef marrow *and* hog's lard, spermaceti, and oil of ben melted together, along with bergamot, rose oil, and nutmeg oil. (The New Perfume Handbook, 1997).
"Easy, Breezy, Beautiful...Pomatum" 1777 (Reynolds) Diana Sackville Detail |
So chances are you *don't* want to be wearing tallow in your hair. Apparently the giant poufs and coifs smelled rather profoundly, with all that pomatum, sweat, and powder. I know a few of you are just itching to try making your own authentic pomatum, but for those less adventurous, what are some modern alternatives?
How about this stuff? This is Murrays Hair Dressing Pomade
Sources:
- Kendra Van Cleave, Demode. "Women's Hairstyles & Cosmetics of the 18th Century: France & England, 1750-1790." http://phdpanacea.wordpress.com/2010/04/24/recipe-for-eternal-youth/
- Nigel Groom. "New Perfume Handbook". 1997.
- Travels and Travails in 18th-Century England (blog). "Recipe For Eternal Youth." 2010. http://phdpanacea.wordpress.com/2010/04/24/recipe-for-eternal-youth/.
- Murray's Pomade - website
Well, I'm glad to know they used hair extensions and padding, I don't know how I would get my hair up without them! I have to use a hair rat! Of course, I would like a proper wig one day, but that seems far in the future.
ReplyDeleteWonderful post! When I look at pictures of beautiful costumes and interiors of the 18th century, I tend to forget how dirty and smelly life must have been. Your last sentence '...smelling like an abattoir.' really made me laugh.
ReplyDeleteI was using Murray's pomade in the early 90s, courtesy of my hairdresser. It was the only thing that gave good enough hold until Sebastian's moulding mud came out. I still have the tin somewhere.
ReplyDeleteCome to think of it, he cut my friend's hair in a modified 18th century style - he was fascinated with 18th century wigs. It's what made me go to him in the first place!
"Itching to try it" is right!
ReplyDeleteThat animal grease was mighty tasty to various vermin and creepy-crawlies, who took up residence in the rich food source that was a 17th-Century hairdo!
Yay, I'm glad you liked the class! Yeah, 18th c. pomatum recipes are not something I really want to try out...
ReplyDeleteI guess this is rather outdated information now that the AD 18th century beauty book is published.
ReplyDelete