I’ve been working holes into my fingers over the past week, trying to complete shiny new costumes for Costume College, the first weekend in August.
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| I have her on my non-historical dress form, so please excuse the wrinkles in the bodice. The skirt is just pinned in the poufs, but will be drawn up with cords, underneath. |
The striped robe a l’Anglaise, now named “The Parisian Gown,” has given me trouble, but I’m slowly working my way through it. The sleeve issues aside, this fabric is just stupidly hard to sew through by hand – I mean, the needle literally squeaks when you pull it through (with pliers, of course). I’ll be happy to see this one done.
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| The skirt down – the serpentine trim makes attaching the skirt at front a challenge, because those panels have to be straight at the top, not pleated. This type of trim works much better on a wide silhouette, with panniers, than a rounder silhouette. |
Issues though it may have had, I’m really happy with how she’s turning out. I plan to make a matching petticoat, though probably not in time for CoCo. I think it will look elegant with the skirt worn down, or a la polonaise, either way. I’m really happy with the volume in the gown skirt, and the way it poufs when hitched up. I have yet to tame the pleats and secure them on the interior, but that’s next on the checklist.
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| Details – the sabot cuff, which also serves as an extension for the sleeves, that turned out shorter than I like. The trim on the bodice and skirt is made from super long lines of cross-cut self fabric, ruched and pressed. Again, please excuse the wrinkles in the bodice, as this is not my historical dress form. |
I added a tiny gusset at the underarm seam of the sleeve, giving the sleeve head more ease. Thanks to all you wonderful ladies who helped me with sleeve advice! They fit much better now!
I have just the finishing of the pleats at the waist, the hem of the skirt (oh goody), the second sabot cuff, and one more little line of trim at the waist to do, then…then it’s done! Yay!
40 Comments
Anonymous
July 23, 2012 at 5:44 PMI think this type of stripe looks far better with a "normal skirt" than 'polonaised up'. The stripes do not lend themselves to a graceful polonaise-just a suggestion. The front of your petticoat should not be seamed and the panel in the center front is far too wide.
Stephanie Lynn
July 23, 2012 at 5:46 PMWow! Hand sewing with pliers sounds so not fun. This gown is turning out quite lovely though. I too have been sewing furiously for Costume College.
Lauren R
July 23, 2012 at 9:24 PMI look forward to meeting you, Stephanie. 🙂
Stephanie Lynn
July 24, 2012 at 3:24 AMMe too! 🙂
Gail
July 23, 2012 at 6:42 PMBeautiful dress. I like the choice of fabrics and all the ruching. Fine dress.
Lauren R
July 23, 2012 at 9:24 PMThank you
Maggie
July 23, 2012 at 7:20 PMI think it looks gorgeous. Ignore the people who like to criticize anonymously. I don't get people like this – it's like they can't wait to jump on anything they can find to critique. This is the reason I feel like I have to make 600 disclaimers every time I post a picture of something I've made. :-/
Lauren R
July 23, 2012 at 9:25 PMI turned off anonymous commenting this morning. Hate to do it, but it is being abused here – way to many snarky comments! Ah well. It's all just for fun, in the end, and I'm not going to stop!
MrsC (Maryanne)
July 23, 2012 at 10:57 PMIt's frickin' awesome, Lauren. I think your patience is astonishing, given how hard it is to sew. And I personally love striped polonaises, I love how the stripes get all broken up in different directions, so much energy, like a pouffy fire cracker! Most of my favourite EXTANT dresses are like that. 🙂
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:13 PMI like that descrip, MrsC, "pouffy fire cracker." I agree!
Unknown
July 23, 2012 at 10:12 PMThis is amaaaazing! Well done! Wish I a- could sew this well and b- had some occasion to wear something this pretty!
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:13 PMThank you! 🙂
Musings of a Couturiere
July 23, 2012 at 11:19 PMhow did you get the front to lay flat? I'm working on a similar style dress and my bodice has a slight wrinkle. if I take any more in on the waist it will be too small to put my closures. I was trying to finish it for my first CoCo but alas it seems like it's not to be…..:(
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:14 PMHi Kristen – I put a panel of canvas on each side, not for the whole piece, but just, like, a little bit of canvas right where the front point likes to bend and misshape. The pattern in Janet Arnold has two lines of boning running down into the point. I haven't added those piece yet, though may omit them if they're not needed.
Anonymous
July 23, 2012 at 11:57 PMI love the color scheme you chose! It's really lovely.
Liz
July 23, 2012 at 11:58 PMAwesome…no other way to describe it…..
Sharon P
July 24, 2012 at 12:16 AMBeautiful! 😀
Gwenyver
July 24, 2012 at 3:08 AMBeautiful. Do tell: what kind of pinking tool do you use for those trims? does the fabric fray a lot afterwards?
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:15 PMHi Gwenyver – I use a pair of scalloped pinking sheers. These lines of trim were just cut straight with the shears, but you can also cut your own scallops, which will then have smaller scallops inside. They're handy – I got them for Christmas, but I believe you can order them online.
Musings of a Couturiere
July 25, 2012 at 7:14 AMbtw I was able to contact green man forge who used to have the website that made the reproduction pinking tool seen in a couple other blogs. he made and shipped me gorgeous little pinker….I will post pictures on my blog later. but if you want to order the pinker you just have to call the number listed on the Internet search and he will make and ship you a tool…he has 3 different sizes two different shapes, mine was about $50 plus shipping.
Lizzardtears
July 24, 2012 at 3:33 AMso lovely! and very inspiring not to give up on frustrating projects. I love the stripes, it looks very elegant drawn up, I think you have done a lovely job.
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:16 PMThank you so much
Thread-Head
July 24, 2012 at 4:12 AMThis is epic-gorgeous. I love the way you pillaged the pattern in the material for different trim variations! That makes me want stripes in a bad way.
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:17 PMYou noticed! Yes, there was much pillaging going on, especially of the all the scraps and start-overs in the pile of fail.
Isis
July 24, 2012 at 10:32 AMI think it's very pretty and my first reaction was just how fun it looked to polonaise stripes.
I think you did right to turn off the anonymous option! Why open the strata for nastiness in ones own blog?
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:17 PMThank you. I like the stripes drawn up too. I'm a little bummed that I had to remove the anon option because I know some people have trouble commenting here, and I didn't want to hinder commenting…but then it just got out of hand.
Madame Berg
July 24, 2012 at 11:47 AMDitto on "polonaised" stripes – it looks elegant and playful at the same time. I love the gown!
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:18 PMThank you! I think so too
Cynthia Griffith
July 24, 2012 at 2:26 PMHow pretty! I can't wait to see photos of you wearing it 😀 And blue and yellow are a favorite pairing of mine, so I really like that! Also, glad to hear of someone else who has to resort to pliers to help pull needles through. Not fun, but you do what you gotta do! LOL!
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:19 PMI keep swearing to myself I will never sew with fabric like this again, and yet, I know the next time I see some pretty silk stripe in the store I'll get all starry-eyed and forget the plier yanking!
Steph
July 24, 2012 at 2:50 PMWow! The overall effect is gorgeous, and the trim specifically is so creative! I've never been much attracted to 18th century styles (except those just pre-Regency), but all of yours are so lovely, my mind is changing.
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:21 PMThanks! We all have our periods of love, and some of "meh," but within the "meh," there's usually one dress or two that are inspiring. 😀 You mentioned you love the period just before Regency – me too! One of my favorites. Be warned, though – the 1790s are a gateway drug to the 1780s and prior 🙂
Zach
July 24, 2012 at 6:05 PMPliers? Yikes! I hate to say that I've been there, but I've been there. That and teeth (sometimes you really don't feel like getting up and running across the house in search of pliers). That dress looks gorgeous, though. I mean REALLY gorgeous. Like I want to rob you kind of gorgeous! I'm so proud of you Lauren!
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:22 PMTeeth!? WHOA! That is hard core, Zach.
Cation Designs
July 24, 2012 at 6:14 PMOh dear, pliers required? Props to you for powering through on that!! I love the fabric you chose and think the poofy polonaised look is just lovely…seriously, anonymous commenters need to just get over themselves!
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:22 PMThank you! I'm looking forward to sewing something in cotton…but opaque cotton, where I don't have to fell all the seams to death, lol. Somewhere there is a happy medium!
Anna
July 24, 2012 at 9:24 PM100% disagree with the snarky "don't polonaise stripes" commenter. Heck, 18th century people LOVED stripes going every which way. Like plaid sacques were any less visually messy?! I think your gown is looking faaabulous, love it! I definitely feel your pain on the pliers + needle combo, had to resort to that for some fabrics before.
Lauren Stowell
July 24, 2012 at 11:23 PMYeah, sometimes people say the most bizarre things. It was just her opinion, anyway. I like the stripes all jumbled up!
ZipZip
July 27, 2012 at 2:36 AMNummy, nummy, as my twins would say. Nothing like a stripe to cheer one up! Can't wait to see this on with its hat!
Unknown
October 17, 2013 at 10:36 PMHow do you the Sabot cuff? I have seen a lot of pictures of them and I can't tell if they are made with a running stitch or pleated.
The gown is so lovely! The colors are a very spring fashion! Keep of the amazing work! 😀