Abby here with Episode 8 of Fashion History with American Duchess! This is Part 2 of our 18th Century Hair convo. Last week we talked about hygiene, hair care, and hair products of the 18th century, and now we’ve moved on to have a chat about different hair styles & their constant evolution through the century (especially the last quarter!)
|Harry Styles…Hairy Styles…Get it? Get it?! 😀 (Apologies to Harry, you seem lovely and I adore your new album.)|
Here’s Our Talking Points:
– We have a pun filled giggle fest about One Direction and Ha(i)rry Styles (who is also Abby’s current crush, btw…and she wants to steal some of his wardrobe, but that’s beside the point…)
– Anglo & American women did not seem to use powder and pomade in the same way as the French women did (heavily powdered hair in the 1750s & 60s seemed to be predominately a French trend – but I am unsure about other European countries – Abby hasn’t investigated it.)
|One of our favorite portraits and favorite gowns, with what appears to be unpowdered or lightly powdered hair. (Portrait of a Lady, Francis Cotes, 1768, Tate Museum)|
|Madame Lalive de Jully, 1764, Joseph Ducreux (Here)|
– The really tall vertical hair that we’ve come to associate with the 1700s is more nuanced than what we think.
– Hair wasn’t actually as tall as what we think too – here are some images that help visually explain what we mean with it comes to proportion and hair:
|Looks huge, but it’s actually not like what you think…those feathers do a lot of the work. (Marie Antoinette, 1778, Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Met Museum via Kunsthistorisches Museum|
|Another of Marie Antoinette|
– “Poufs” are not the hair styles – they are the the gauzy, feathered, bedazzled, and be-shipped bits that women would wear on top of their hair that helped get it to “enormous” heights.
– Abby confuses the man-milliner who is credited with created the pouf, Leonard, for Louis during the talk – like a damn professional….(guess who’s annoyed at herself. Ha!)
-Abby has a moan about the “ship in the hair” trope while Lauren ponders the idea of putting a race car in a new pouf. (Abby supports the race car idea because it is funny.)
– Abby raves about Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell’s book Fashion Victims: Dress at the Court of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette and her research on Leonard, poufs, etc. (buy the book – seriously – it’s so good!)
– Abby talks about the different cushions, shapes, and rollers that were made and used in the 18th century to create the crazy hair designs.
|The Village Barber, 1778, Library of Congress|
– Lauren laments trying to hack the “donut” hair cushion with a plastic swim wing thing.
– We chat about the frizzy hairstyles of the 1780s and how in the beginning they were done by “crapeing” the hair.
– Abby probably butchers the name “Plocacosmos” which is the title of one of her favorite hair-dressing and care manuals.
– We talk about how the instructions for the 1780 style hair in Plocacosmos: The Whole Art of Hair Dressing (1782) describes the styles and tools seen in the 1780s Encyclopédie méthodique.
|This style, the combs, hair pieces, and cushions are all described in Plocacosmos – it was amazing! Plate is from a later Edition of Encyclopédie Méthodique (image)|
– We also talk about how what we call the “hedgehog” hairstyle is more wide than it is tall.
|Circle of Johann Ernst HEINSIUS, Portrait of Young Lady with Yellow Bow, 1780s-90s, Here|
As always, I’ve probably missed a bullet point from the post, but this should give you a good general idea of what we chat about. Hope you enjoy!!!