Click "Read More" to continue
1. Start with the sleeves sewn on to the bottom of the armscyes. I put right sides together and hand-sewed using a back stitch (for strength). I attached the whole bottom half.
|Don't worry about the raw edges in the lining. Zig-zag or overcast prior, though, if you want to keep things more clean.|
|Top of the shoulder is free. Strap is pulled back, but lining strap is still in place.|
2. Fit the sleeve head over the shoulder.
|This takes some fenagling. It's like "sculpting." Don't worry about raw edges at this point; you're going to cover them.|
I had a little more volume in the top curve of the sleeve that would fit the armscye of this gown exactly, so I put one tuck in at the top of the shoulder. Arrange any extra volume however you like, in small pleats, or tucks. When it's all tucked and pleated into the right position, sew it to the lining - a running stitch or a back stitch works fine.
3.Now you're going to take the fashion fabric strap and apply it to the top, to cover the raw edges. Fold the edges of the strap under and top stitch - yep, I said top stitch - in place, using a small running stitch, or a back stitch if you want more strength.
|Fold under the edges and top-stitch in place.|
|This is the other sleeve, but you can see the finish.|
Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790
Costume in Detail: Women's Dress 1730-1930