Tuesday, October 3, 2017

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The Robe a la Turque - Part 3 - Shalwar Puffy Pants


Before I forget about all the trials and tribulations (and sometimes fun) I had making my Turkish costume for Costume College 2017, I better tell you about one of the most enjoyable parts - the puffy pants!

Since Guimard's lower legs are not visible in the painting, I decided to do puffy pants - harem pants as you might know them, or "shalwar" as properly termed - based on these images:

Costume for Idamé, in the Orphan of China. (1779).jpg

Costume of the Sultana used in the Comédie Française in the Plays where there is a role for this Costume. (1779)
Sticking with the European-interpretation-of-Turkish-dress angle, I patterned, cut, and constructed the pants as I thought an 18th century mantua-maker might. My version certainly aren't like real shalwar at all, but I was very happy with the result.

My scribble-notes when planning how to make these pants. I ended up making them a bit long (because I didn't realize the cuff actually fastens under the knee, not at the ankle), so cut a good foot off the bottom before pleating.

I cut two very basic, super-wide legs (front and back) with a very low crotch point. The waist I pleated just like a petticoat, leaving it split on the sides, which worked just fine. The hems of each leg were roughly pleated into a a cuff band that snapped around my ankle.

Pleating and binding the top like an 18th century petticoat.
I still planned to wear the standard Western underpinnings, a shift and stays, but the shalwar negated the other usual underpinnings. I could not wear an underpetticoat or false bum, which gave the finished costume a long, loose, somewhat "deflated" look compared to the popular silhouette of 1790.

Swish, swish, swish - such good scroop with these pants. Not so good on the "so you have to go to the bathroom" part, though!

I left enough length in the legs to create a nice "bulb" when gathered into the ankle bands, which are barely visible. They snapped on the sides.
As I would later find out, it was also ridiculously hard to go to the bathroom! Word to anyone making shalwar to be worn under a gown...do some kind of snaps or ties or *something* in the crotch!



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Friday, September 29, 2017

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Jane Austen Festival in Pictures


How remiss am I in sharing photos, proper photos, from the Jane Austen Festival. So remiss! In fact, when I opened up this draft post to see how far I'd gotten, this is all I had...

"Photos and shit"

Oh my.

So let's remedy that.

This year at Jane Austen Festival in Louisville, Kentucky, I had the unique opportunity to photograph not one, not two, not three, but four gorgeous women in full 1790s attire.

This was *the year* of 1790s (and we hope the trend continues!). Here are my favorite shots of Abby, Nicole, Maggie, and Lauren M.

Left to Right: Abby, Nicole, Robert The Barbary Corsair, Lauren M. and Maggie

Nicole's shako was incredible.

Lauren a la Marvelleuise in beautiful 1790s

Pass the Punch - we enjoyed an excellent dinner with The Acasta, which got friendlier and friendlier as the punch bowl made its rounds.

Abby and Maggie, the whimple sisters, rocking the late 1790s trend for exotically wrapped turbans

Nicole wore a stunning embroidered batiste gown with her version of the Agreeable Tyrant spencer in burnt orange silk trimmed with olive green buttons and passimenterie.

Abby's gown was a gold-printed Indian cotton trimmed in gold bullion fringe with a gathered front and green silk sash pinned with Wedgewood jewelry.

The narrow diamond back of Maggie's 1790s gown was expertly fitted. This is a tricky style to accomplish!

Maggie's gown was made of a subtly red and blue dotted cotton with a full back and train. The front was high-necked and gathered, worn over a chemisette. The whole ensemble was tied together with a dark blue silk ribbon sash.
The train on Nicole's gown was long and luscious, a hallmark of 1790s fashion for both day and evening.

Details - accessories make the 1790s interesting. The same Agreeable Tyrant spencer made and worn two different ways for completely different looks - Nicole and Lauren M.

Same pattern, two exquisite and quite different results. This pattern came from the book An Agreeable Tyrant.
Gorgeous Lauren M in her round gown with enormous '90s cap and her Agreeable Tyrant spencer in black silk trimmed in silver.

Token gentleman - The Doctor, HMS Acasta

It was hot and sticky but we still had fun!

...but we don't take ourselves TOO seriously, now. ;-)
 We had such a great time, even if we were a little heat drunk.

Practical info for the pretties seen in this post:

* Abby's gown, sash, and turban were put together with the methods in "The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking."
* "An Agreeable Tyrant" is available on the DAR website here.
* The shoes seen in these shots are "Pemberley" Regency Slippers and "Dunmore" 18th Century Shoes available from AmericanDuchess.com. The new "Dashwood" slippers are also available there.
* Learn more about the Jane Austen Festival in Kentucky here.
* Learn more about HMS Acasta here.



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Monday, September 18, 2017

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The American Duchess Guide - Previews!


Lovelies, we are so excited to finally be able to give you all a sneak preview and some behind-the-scenes info on our upcoming book, The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking.

We want to thank everyone for supporting our effort so far - thanks to you, The American Duchess Guide has reached #1 Bestseller on Amazon in the "Sewing" category. Woohoo!!



This video is the first in a series of "chats" about the book - motivation, inspiration, intention, and later on some more in-depth info about each of the gowns we chose and how the projects went.

The book is currently available to pre-order on Amazon, Barnes & Noble, and other major booksellers. It's available through Amazon in Europe, Australia, Canada, and other countries, so you don't need to purchase from the USA.

Make this gown, step-by step!
We *will* be selling signed copies on AmericanDuchess.com on November 21st, if you'd like your book to have a bit of Lauren&Abby chicken-scratch on the opening pages. ;-) We will also be attending events and book signings but we don't have settled dates on any of those yet. We'll keep you posted!
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Friday, September 15, 2017

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The American Duchesses: A Tale of Two Consuelos

Hello Lovelies!

Welcome to part two of our stories of  real life American Duchesses, rich stateside socialites who married into the British aristocracy. Today we have the Tale of Two Consuelos.

The first is Consuelo Yznaga, was born in New York to a Cuban father & American mother. Through her father there were close connections to Spanish aristocracy and a great deal of wealth. She married George Montagu, Viscount Mandeville, who later became the Duke of Manchester. Thus, Consuelo became the Duchess of Manchester. Consuelo was also one of the real "Buccaneers". She passed away in 1909.
Consuelo Yznaga, Duchess of Manchester, 1907, John Singer Sargent
The Manchester Tiara, which Consuelo commissioned Cartier to make, is in the Victoria and Albert collection and it's amazing.   


Manchester Tiara, 1903, Cartier, V&A
As it turns out the Duchess of Manchester was super besties with Alva Smith Vanderbilt who is actually the mother to the second Consuelo. And yes, she was named after the Duchess of Manchester, who was the godmother to Consuelo Vanderbilt.

Consuelo Vanderbilt was born March 2, 1877 in New York, heiress to an immense railroad fortune. Her mother was apparently very controlling and manipulative, pressuring her to marry Charles Spencer-Churchill, the 9th Duke of Marlborough, by locking her in her room and pretending to be on her death bed. I feel bad for Consuelo - supposedly she was already secretly engaged to another man, but her mother won that battle of wills and she married the Duke in 1895. It wasn't too long before it was marriage in name only, and eventually they had the marriage annulled. Consuelo re-married for love to Jacques Balsan, a French textile manufacturing heir.  

Consuelo Vanderbilt, Duchess of Marlborough, 1903, Paul César Helleu
Even though her marriage to the Duke of Marlborough failed, Consuelo still kept close connections with the Spencer-Churchill family, especially Winston Churchill. Consuelo relocated to Florida around 1932, and spent the last part of her life living in the United States. She passed away in 1964. 


Consuelo Vanderbilt, c. 1890 (?)

Conseulo Vanderbilt wrote about her life and experiences in her own book "Glitter and the Gold: The American Duchess, in Her Own Words."

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Thursday, September 7, 2017

The Real American Duchesses: Part 1

Hello Lovelies!

As you all know, this blog and shoe company are called American Duchess - but would you believe we're not the first American Duchess(es) to exist? Nope! Indeed, there have been many American Duchesses over the years, from real women to a race horse, oil company, and line of fine cigars.

Perhaps the first common usage of the term "American Duchess" arose in the 19th century, when it became "a thing" for wealthy American socialites to marry broke English lords. The ladies got the status while the gentlemen got the money. If this sounds familiar, it was the premise for the marriage between Cora and Lord Grantham from Downton Abbey.

The term "American Duchess" on our side of the pond - the American side - became a colloquialism for this kind of pan-Atlantic match regardless of the actual title of the ladies involved. Some were actual Duchesses while others could claim less - or greater! - titles. With that being said, and much to the chagrin of proper English folks everywhere, we share with you the stories of some of our favorite, notable "American Duchesses."

Meet Jennie Jerome, who became Lady Randolph Spencer-Churchill. Lady Churchill was born in Brooklyn, New York to Leonard & Clara Jerome. Her father's success in stock market speculation and investments meant that she grew up in wealthy aristocratic circles in Europe and New York. She married Lord Randolph Spencer-Churchill in 1874, and became the mother to Winston Churchill. Turns out she was also, ahem, quite popular in aristocratic circles, and developed a lot of political and social connections this way. These political connections seem to be quite beneficial to Winston's career as an adult. She was also just stunning:

Photography by Henry Van Der Wyde, 1874-80s 

Portrait c. 1880


Lord Randolph died in 1895, leaving Jennie a widow and a bit of a saucy cougar. Her second marriage was to George Cornwallis-West, who was the same age as her son, Winston, in 1900. Sadly, things fell apart over time, and they divorced in 1914. She married a third time to Montagu Phippen Porch, who was 3 years younger than her son Winston Churchill, in 1918.

Outside of her love life, Jennie seems to have been an incredibly inspiring person. She was awarded the Royal Red Cross in 1902 for her services during the Second Boer War, published a memoir in 1908, was an avid playwright for West End productions, and edited a quarterly magazine, "The Anglo-Saxon Review" for a few years.

Jennie died in 1921, after a failed amputation attempt from an infection in her leg. She was 67 years old.

In my opinion, Jennie seems like she would have been an incredible woman to have been acquainted with during her lifetime, and is a great example of an "American Duchess."





Finally, just wanted to share this picture of her son, Winston, from the 1890s, when he was smokin' hot.



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Monday, September 4, 2017

Tulip Fever - Hello, Early 17th Century

Holliday Granger as Marie in "Tulip Fever."
Lauren here -

This past weekend, we went to see "Tulip Fever," a film set in 1630s Amsterdam. Though the movie suffers from mixed reviews, for historical costumers it's a feast for the eyes. Beautiful, very accurately made and worn garments, beautiful sets and lighting, excellent acting...it's one to add to your list of good-to-sew-by costume flicks.

While I too felt mixed about the plot (being business-minded I did wish there was more focus on the wacky tulip trade and not so much on the wacky love triangles), I couldn't help but be seduced by the clothing. Costume designer Michael O'Connor is famed for such fabled films as "The Duchess" and "Jane Eyre," and has produced in "Tulip Fever" another insanely rich and detailed depiction of early 17th century Dutch clothing.

A very 1630s gown with the "new" broad, soft silhouette, appropriate for the scene - a portrait being painted, so the height of fashion.
So of course now I want to make my own. Although I've always been drawn to the very late 16th century and early 17th century, I have made very little from that span and nothing at all from the 1620s or 1630s. "Tulip Fever" takes place in the mid 1630s and the styles of garments vary just as they did then. The 1630s seems to be a very transitional period with all sorts of change in silhouette, rigidity vs. softness, volume, etc. The film depicts this very well.

Anonymous - Portrait of Mertijntje van Ceters, 1623
Portrait of Catharina van Voorst Paulus Moreelse - 1628
Elisabeth (or Cornelia) Vekemans As A Young Girl - this date I believe is a little earlier
Cornelis de Vos Elisabeth (or Cornelia) Vekemans as a Young Girl, c. 1625
This specific period of dress holds a lot of mystery. It's not particularly well-studied and hardly represented at all in the historical costuming hobby. Angela Mombers does it wonderfully and her recently completed 1620 outfit is so inspiring that I'm feeling a neeeeeeeed to explore this period at last.

Angela from Walking Through History with Jasper and Angela 
So off I go. I have a couple books with scant resources. The two most fantastic in my library are Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns: Book 1 and Book 2, and I also have a little help from The Cut of Women's Clothes. The late 1620s, early 1630s are somewhat skipped by my other references. If anyone has book recommendations for me, please comment!

It feels good to be stepping into a new period of dress history. I've been laser-focused on the 18th century for years now, and I do love love love it beyond everything, but it's good to step out of one's comfort zone at time too. I'm nervous....I don't automatically know all the stitches or what order to do things in or the proper this-and-that, but that's all part of the fun, right? Wish me luck. <3
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