by Elizabeth Friendship
(c) Batsford 2013
$21.00 - $26.00
Every once in awhile there comes a book that changes the shape of historical costuming ever after. One find one's self referring back to a book like this hundreds of times, before, during, and even after a project is completed. So vast is the information contained within a book such as this, that it becomes a go-to source for the myriad questions that arise when working through the construction of a historical costume. Creating Historical Clothes: Pattern cutting from Tudor to Victorian times is one such book.
Creating Historical Clothes: Pattern cutting from Tudor to Victorian times covers just about everything you could ever want to learn about drafting patterns for each of these periods. It's hard core.
The book starts with some serious lessons in basic pattern manipulation, detailing with description and diagram how to moved darts, flare skirts, adjust necklines, alter sleeves, and draft pants (to name just a few of the lessons). Then it moves on to period-specific patterning, building on the lessons learned earlier in the book.
|Each chapter covers period-specific patterning. Here on the left is a shaped sleeve with mariner cuffs, from the 18th c. - I wish I'd had this when I was doing the sleeves for my wedding gown.|
One of the major strengths of this book is that you use your own measurements to draft these patterns. These are not gridded patterns made from original garments, or to a single size, so the resulting clothing you make should fit you precisely. It does involve math, measuring, and the ever-dreaded mock-up(s), but the idea is to draft a specific pattern from the get-go, instead of correcting an ill-fitting one.
The book is intense. It is very much for costumers who are ready to draft their own patterns, and can make sense of the information. To beginners, the book will be overwhelming, though I do think it is helpful in advising how to alter existing patterns - for instance, enlarging a sleeve, or removing darts from a pattern.
|Detailed diagrams and instructions outline how to draft this Elizabethan bodice. I particularly like that attention is paid to the necklines and should strap areas, and getting these correct and trued.|
Creating Historical Clothes: Pattern cutting from Tudor to Victorian times is definitely one to add to your bookshelf, even if you aren't quite ready for it yet. I wish I'd had this book when I was making my grand pannier, or trying to sort out the construction for the LACMA Sacque-ma, or working out the kinks on last year's Elizabethan doublet. It's a fantastic reference and guide to working on patterns for a huge span of time.
|Sleeves are often the trickiest part for costumers (I know they are for me). Here you can see clear diagrams on how to create shaped sleeves for the 18th c.|