I purchased the now-out-of-print Simplicity 3635 pattern on eBay a few weeks back. The package contains patterns for stays, pockets, a chemise, and a full panier, all of which actually look surprisingly spot-on. It’s a shame this pattern is out of print, but I can see why – it isn’t an easy throw-together for the casual Halloween costumer, though is straightforward for us wacky historical types.
I’m really pleased with the results of this panier. The pattern was easy to put together, though time consuming. Mine is made from plain ole cotton, single layer with the boning channels made from self fabric cut on the straight, and turned using a bias tape maker.
I deviated a bit, as always – instead of the drawstring waist, I gathered the top of the panier into a waistband with a buckle closure on the side. I also added an additional hoop at the hem, and I may go back and add a flounce all around as well.
|Simplicity 3635 Grand Panier (please ignore those Regency stays, btw)|
My favorite part of this panier, besides its monumental size, is that it is made of zip ties. Yes, zip ties. Really huge ones, like, three feet long ones from Home Depot. The largest hoop at the hem took three of these mega zip ties taped together with duck tape. Initially I was concerned about collapse, but once the panier had all its hoops, and the interior tapes tied, it became very stable. Here I have piled two basic 18th c. petticoats on top (obviously they are not made for a panier!), and the panier is just fine.
|One flounced petticoat on top – this is the heaviest piece.|
|A lightweight cotton petticoat for an additional layer. To fix the issue at the sides, I will need to make a petticoat specifically for the panier.|
I most definitely recommend this pattern. You can find it on eBay and Etsy, and although the price is a little high, in my opinion it is worth it. You get quite a lot of bang for your buck, and it is an easy introduction to this large structure.