|Finished sacque petticoat over pocket hoops|
I’ve been steadily progressing on my new sacque, using the Simplicity 8578 Robe a la Francaise pattern we released December 2017.
I used two panels of 60″ wide taffeta. I marked the top curve from the Simplicity pattern and pleated up the back, finishing the top edge with a tape.
|The trim applied to the front panel of the petticoat before pleating the top edge.|
I trimmed the front of the petticoat before I pleated the top, which made it loads easier to deal with. The Simplicity pattern has trim placement markings on it, and while I chose my own trim style, I did use the width from the tissue to determine how wide I wanted my trim.
Trimming is the fun part! I used the scalloped trim templates cut out from posterboard, traced onto the silk with a heat-erase pen, and then set to cutting each scallop with my scalloped pinking shears, which makes a wonderful, very Georgian pinked edge. It’s a little tedious, but the trick is to fold up the fabric double or triple, pin it to hold everything secure, and then cut.
|The taffeta is folded up and pinned, then the trim template is traced over the part of the stripe that I liked|
|Cutting scallops with scalloped pinking shears – originally these would have been punched with a scalloped tool, but I can never get mine sharp enough so I use the scissors and that’s just fine.|
|Whip gathering the edge of the trim pieces|
I strategically cut my pinked strips from different parts of the stripe in my fabric, to make different color effects. I whip-gathered the different pieces, working two widths together for the deep ruffle and top trim. The bottom-most trim is a single piece but I did two rows of whip gathers simultaneously.
|A whip-gathered double ruffle for the petticoat – I gathered the narrow and wide pieces together,then pressed open with the iron.|
Once all the trim was on it was just a matter of pleating the top, binding it, and finishing the petticoat hem. I did run into a little trouble here – I forgot that Simplicity added a deeper hem to the petticoat, so mine has come out a little too long. I could take the trim off the front, raise it all, and then re-hem the petticoat, but what I’m going to try first is actually just rolling over the top edges to raise the entire hem.
|The top edge of the petticoat pleated then bound with cotton tape.|
So now with the petticoat done (pending raising that hem), I’ve moved on to the gown, but that is another blog post for another day. <3