Red Russian Doll Coat, Now Looking Like A Coat

Oct 7, 2014 4 comments
Wow this project is kicking my buns ... but in a good way!

With the help of many books, not least of all Vogue Sewing, I've been trying some tailoring techniques, some with more success than others, and already I can see the things I want to do or do better on the next jacket or coat.

When this is all about done, I'll turn it inside out and take a photo, before I put the lining in, because there's just all sorts of interesting things going on inside.

Anyway, here's the progress:

Facings have been stitched and are pinned back in place, before I put the lining in to secure them. Red belt is just there to mock up.
The back gathers in nicely. The collar looks best standing up. I need to understitch it just a bit more to get it to lay down nicely when folded over
Some random notes:

  • The fur guard on the hem is about 10 pieces stitched together, edge-to-edge. Though it's faux fur, I'm using the same techniques you would for real fur hides, and it seems to be working.
  • The collar is a bit sprung - I stitched the fur directly to the undercollar and stretched it a bit to get the corners to curve down towards the body.
  • The fur guard and collar are stitched to the coat completely, but I wouldn't do it this way again. Vogue Sewing recommends making these pieces separate and just tacking them on, so they can be easily removed later for cleaning. It would also make it *a lot* easier to construct, especially in getting things to lay smoothly. The cuffs I will be doing the "correct" way.
  • The sleeve heads are eased in, and make use of shoulder pads and fleece strips to help support the lines. They're not perfect, but they're the cleanest set-in sleeves I've done so far. The sleeve caps were considerably larger than the armscye - next time I'll adjust that so they set in more smoothly.

I still have a lot of work to do. I'm debating about adding a warmth layer - I do want to wear this jacket just as a jacket, not as a costume, this winter, and it's really very thin right now.

Here's what the jacket looks like when not belted - it's a huge tent!
Bah, my mind is all over the place, so I'll leave you there, and get back to work!


  1. The jacket is turning out beautifully! It looks so cozy and fun already.

  2. What awesomeness!!! This is getting so fun! Love love love the fur....

  3. Love it! Do me a favor: Please wear this out and about, maybe for Christmas shopping, with riding boots and a great pair of jeans. Because it would look awesome. Thanks.

  4. Wow! The coat is looking seriously gorgeous!


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