V346: How to Make a Victorian Bustle – Pattern and Instructions

Hi all! Okay, I’m going to attempt to explain how to make the lobster tail bustle I posted about last time.  I want to stress that there is no right or wrong way to do this, and the way you put yours together may be different than how I did mine.  You *will* need some patience and math skills, but anyone can make one of these tournures, so long as you are a little crafty and have some sewing know-how.  Ready?

This pattern isn’t ready-made – you plug in your own measurements and draw it out.  Luckily, though, it is mostly straight lines, and is very forgiving.
Make note of the 1/3 rule – you don’t want the bustle back coming all the way around to your sides, which is why it is 1/3 and not 1/4.

The “traingle” side piece can be any shape really.  The purpose of it is to keep the bustle from shifting around at back
If you intend to add a ruffle or pleat guard, do it while the whole thing is flat, without bones.
Stitching the side back seams, with the tapes on top – that black tape is only there because I ran out of white, no special reason, lol
That’s the basics – customize to your heart’s content.
Here’s how it looks with the inner tapes tied together.
The finished piece – it sits 2″ below the waistline.
I’ve tried to be descriptive, but I’ve probably forgotten something, so if you have questions, go ahead and leave a comment, and I will try my best to answer them. 🙂
More resources for Victorian bustles –
Truly Victorian pattern (skip the drafting and just sew it up.)
Underwear: Fashion in Detail (V&A Books)
Corsets & Crinolines by Norah Waugh (diagrams, primary sources)

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