I finally have a new 18th c. project in mind, yay! I want to make a striped red Robe a l’Anglaise, but to be worn either polonaise’d (verb) or “dans le poches,” which simply means “pulled through the pockets.” My inspiration is the Robe Retroussee Dans Le Poches from the Kyoto Costume Institute, a gown I’ve always loved:
|Kyoto Costume Institute, 1780|
This gown is a sack-back, as you see, but a nice in-depth discussion on the AD facebook page has decided me on the ability to wear any gown in this manner, as we’ve reasoned that it was due to utility first, fashion later.
I’ll be starting from the inside out. The only things I have are skirt supports, as I keep selling my stays, and never have had a proper chemise. My deadline is June 18th/19th – the Vallejo Pirate Festival, CA – so I have the time to do this thing right, starting with new stays.
|Ready for binding|
I had a pair-in-progress laying around. They’re two layers, lightly stayed with 1/4″ ties, and back-lacing only, which is a new thing for me. The pattern is a prow-front 1770s-80s style, with horizontal stays sandwiched between the outer layer and the lining. The rest is 3/4 boned, let’s call it.
|The first layer (left), sewn as one with the outer fabric, then a sandwiched layer with the horizontal channels (right)|
It looks dreadful on this dressform, the Not-So-Uniquely-Me. She is compressible through the middle, but wow what a lot of yanking on the laces to get it down to a more accurate measurement for my own body. Also, the shoulders of this thing are not at all indicative of humanoid shoulders, which is why the straps look way too short (but actually aren’t).
|Showing the prow-front, and also the vertical channels. You can’t see the horizontal interior channels, but they’re there, working their magic.|
It’s about time I have a proper set of undies, so there will be a voile chemise/smocky-thing next, and a short-length petticoat with a flounced hem. More updates soon!
|That’s a lot of squeeze, but this dress form is stiffer than a real body. Yes, those are metal grommets in the back. Spiral lacing, and attached straps.|