This is gown #1 in my wardrobe, for the Jane Austen Festival coming up in July. I've decided to make two dresses, one representing the early end of Jane Austen (the 1790s), and one representing the later end (the 18teens).
My references for this 1790s gown are as follows:
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Kyoto Costume Institute |
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Kyoto Costume Institute |
I started with a fitted lining on the back, draping in muslin, upon which I endeavored to mount the voile and create decorative pleating, something like on the back of the Tidens Toj gown:
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Draping. I have an extreme rise in the back...might as well make it interesting, right? |
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The fitted lining. Three seams. |
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Mounting the voile on the back. I added the extra pleaties to look like seams. Cool huh? I sewed these down and cut the excess off. |
I did run into some problems, though.
First, the width of the fabric (the direction in which the slightly oblong "dots" of the dotted swiss run) was way too short to form the length of the skirt, so I had a moment of panic hoping I was going to have enough fabric to complete the gown, since I only ordered 4 yards. Luckily it's come out just right with the dots now running horizontal (it's barely noticeable), and I have plenty of length in the skirt.
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This is looking too short... |
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A little patch piece for the strap extension - this is the lining, and the voile went over this. |
This gown is ridiculously simple. The front piece is literally one long rectangle gathered at the top, and with a drawstring under the bust. I removed a small bit of volume to create the curve for the armscye, but that's the only cutting I did.
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My progress so far- this is from the back. |
The front of this gown *will* need an underbodice. I thought I could get away without one, but I learned that there is unwanted poofage on the side of the bust with the drawstring style, and this needs to be tacked down to the underbodice, to keep everything in place. It will also keep the back laying nicely and tightly.
I still have the second half of the front to sew on, and then the sleeves, but I'm really pleased with how quickly and easily this gown has come together! I can instead spend my time on getting the hair and wrappy headgear correct...and acquiring massively large feathers :-)
This is soooo beautiful! I've been wanting to make one in a similar style to this for so long...but I never seem to make time for it. Maybe this summer. :)
ReplyDeleteThis danish gown has been my white whale. I've been doggedly pursuing, trying and failing at it. I will have it someday!
ReplyDeleteI am curious on how you installed the drawstring.
ReplyDeleteThe Drawstring - I marked the placement of the empire waist with pins. It was curved in this case, because of the ascent in the back. I then folded the fabric over, right sides together, and sewed the channel, so it is on the inside of the gown. The drawstring is self-fabric, and I threaded it with a drawstring tool (love that thing), and it is stitched in at the side seam.
ReplyDeleteThe Tidens Toj gown is the primo example, I think. I still haven't achieved it with this gown - the back isn't right, and there will be no embroidery - but some day :-)
It's looking great so far. I can't wait to see the finished piece.
ReplyDeleteI recommend Lamplight Fly for the massive feathers. You probably already know them, but I find their huge ostrich feathers to be really well-priced (I'm ordering lots for my wedding in July).
ReplyDeleteIntersting study/construction. Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteI wonder how the front of the Tidens Toj dress was constructed as it seems there's no front seam in the skirt (just a slit), yet the pieces of the bodice overlap.
Sabine
Hi Sabine,
ReplyDeleteThe Tidens Toj gown closes in the front with an underbodice, then the front pieces overlap and tie. I took a look at it in a recent blog post, and also found the pattern as a PDF online, which makes it nice and clear. Here's the link:
http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2011/03/costume-analytics-white-wedding-gown.html
Your fabric choice (as always) is lovely! Can't wait to see the finished gown (as it looks, that may be anytime soon! lol!).
ReplyDeleteDear Lauren,
ReplyDeleteHandsome job! The spots in the fabric really set off the feel of the fabric. Can't wait to see what you think of the final product.
Very best,
Natalie
I took some photos of this gown and put them on my blog at http://aylwen.blogspot.com.au/2011/10/my-tidens-tj-regency-gown.html
ReplyDelete