Regency Short and Somewhat Transitional Stays

The newt project for Lauren the Silhouettist is a pair of Regency short stays.  We first took a look at what’s out there, for inspiration:

Transitional 1790s (left) and long busked stays (later 1800)

Transitional stays showing tabs and drawstring.

Transitional Stays pattern from Past Patterns.

The Regency Sports bra – looks modern.  KCI (?)

Transitional Stays.  I believe these are from Kent State University Museum, but I can’t find them in their collection.  However, these are pretty close to what we’re going for.

Earlier transitional stays, very interesting construction.

Lauren didn’t like the idea of tabs on the bottom edge, so we’ve opted to remove those, and keep the bust line in the later style, at the empire waist, instead of the longer style you see in transitional stays.

However, some of the features on these transitionals appealed, such as the bust cups, gathered at the top edge, and the thin straps.

Here’s the sketch I’ve come up with – it ain’t pretty, but it’s a working drawing, figuring out just how I’m going to go about this:

The stays will be made of 3 layers – cotton, canvas, cotton, with the bust cups in just cotton.  There is minimal boning, just at the back and side seams, and the stays lace up in front.  I’m going to curve the center front edges down at the stop just a smidge, to keep them from accidentally showing from potentially low-cut gowns.

References:
Fashion: The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute
Katherine’s Dress Site – 1790s Transitional Stays