17th c. Shirt

Last time I posted about 17th c. costume, we were looking at the client’s references for 17th c. linen shirts.  Well now it’s done! lol.

I used a simple rectangle-based pattern for this shirt.  It is very like an Elizabethan shirt, but with changes to the collar.  I did two sets of ties on the collar, and one set of ties on each cuff, using white dutch linen tape.

This shirt is made for a lady, with the shoulder seams not extending far over the shoulder point.  The neckline is gathered into the collar, and the shirt makes use of underarm gussets to avoid bunching and pulling when the client wears her bodices or jackets.

We went with 100% linen, washed about three times to soften it up!  All interior seams are finished, for strength and historical accuracy.

About the photos:  I shot these using natural light from a window, and a black muslin backdrop.  I underexposed them quite a bit, but after working with them in Photoshop, I can see I need to purposefully underexpose them even more, as the whites are blown out!  Chromatic aberrations are also a bit out of control, but I’ll know better for next time!

References:

• Tudor Tailor: reconstructing sixteenth- century dress
• Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660 (Patterns of Fashion)