James’ Fantastic 18th Century Suit – Starting Line

Red wool suit with gold trimming, Kyoto Costume Institute, 1740s

It’s about time I posted something, yeah? I have a good excuse: this little Duchie has finally found herself a new home, and this one with an entire room devoted to “work,” half of that being graphic design/illustration, and the other half being costuming! However, this room is currently in utter chaos, complete with puppy. I’ll be setting up this workspace to be full of win in the near future, but for now, here it is, in all its glory:

Now, to the good stuff. I’ve been commissioned to make a mid-18th century men’s suit, from breeches, to waistcoat, to frock coat, to hat. James, the client, has done a wonderful job picking out his fabrics, a delicious navy blue velvet for the frock coat and breeches, and a fantastic metallic silver and black brocade for the waistcoat, very French. He is looking for a well-tailored look reminiscent of the trim ensembles in “Marie Antoinette.” He’d also like a lot of trim work on the coat, which will likely involved metallic silver braids and trims, if not a little embroidery (I’m thinking about the buttons).

While James is drooling over his newly arrived 18th c costume books, I’ve done a little digging of my own, and here’s what I’ve come up with for inspiration:

As for patterns, I’ve decided to go with JP Ryan. These patterns are reported to be accurate, nicely complex yet workable, and the go-to source for this century. I’ll be working with these:

The last bit is the hat. I’ll be creating the cockades and feather arrangements on a felt blank, like this one (which does come in navy, ooo!):

After I receive the patterns, I’ll be mocking up each piece in muslin, and frolicking down to the Bay Area in later December, for a fitting. I’ll then have until the end of January to finish it, as it’s due for an early February costume ball.

This is American Duchess’ FIRST commission, so let’s make it a good one!!

(And if you are interested in commissioning a costume, or costume pieces, please e-mail me at [email protected])