I haven’t been in a super-sewing mood, but I have made a little progress on the polonaise jacket planned for our Colonial Williamsburg trip this coming October.
I draped the pattern for this back in March/April, and tested it out with some muslin, making a few changes. The challenging part of the polonaise jackets is that they hang open in front, yet appear to be somewhat fitted.
I ended up carving away the front “sweep”, and needing to add in a bust dart, like the one in the Snowshill Riding Habit jacket found in Patterns of Fashion 1
I cut each piece individually, to match the patterns in the fabric, like on the inspiration jacket. My sprigs were so far apart I ended up having to put a seam at the center back, where the skirting starts – not ideal, but necessary, to get the flowers on that part of the jacket.
More progress is to come! This is a challenging project, with much problem solving, but I’m determined to get a wearable piece out of it!
21 Comments
HistoricBeauty
June 26, 2012 at 10:21 PMI love how the flowers are matching so well. Excellent job! It looks beautiful Lauren!
Lauren R
June 26, 2012 at 10:35 PMThank you!
Iron Chef Kosher!
June 26, 2012 at 10:29 PMOther jacket have back center seams – stop beating yourself up about it!!
Lauren R
June 26, 2012 at 10:36 PMOh, I'm not upset about it – I mean, I would have preferred it without that seam at the waist, but not more than having the flowers on the skirting. 🙂
Edith
June 26, 2012 at 11:24 PMSo beautiful! I love the fabirc! The flowers are stunning! Would this style of jacket not be a "Pierrot"?
Can't wait to see the finished product!
Lauren R
June 27, 2012 at 12:32 AMHi Edith – thank you! The polonaise jackets and pierrot jackets differed in some respects. The pierrots were a little later (1780s and 90s) and are like a bodice with an added peplum or flounce out the back. The polonaise jackets are like a man's cutaway frock coat, and worn over a stomacher that shows out the bottom – kindof like a zone-front garment, but the edges of the "zone" are loose and hanging.
Katy Rose
June 26, 2012 at 11:37 PMno…This will be worn over a stomacher and instead of the front jacket edges laying flat against the body they are only attached at the neckline, which is the defining element to a Polonaise Jacket. A Pierrot is basically a jacket with long, fitted sleeves, it stops at the waist and has a peplum in the back….
Lauren R
June 27, 2012 at 12:33 AMYep, exactly right
yvonne, [email protected]
June 27, 2012 at 12:12 AMSo gorgeous. Where did you find the fabric. I need to make something like this for my sister-in-law and am having trouble finding period correct fabric.
Lauren R
June 27, 2012 at 12:34 AMHi Yvonne – I got this fabric at a local HomeFabrics store. It's medium weight, and not the best material content. I also have a really hard time finding period fabrics, but I've been compiling a pin board for my finds here: http://pinterest.com/americanduchess/fabrics-of-drool/
Lampas and Brocade stuffs seem to be a sure bet, but they can be expensive. I got some lampas for $10/yard on sale last week, couldn't believe it, but you really have to hunt for it – still, there are deals to be found!
Tricia
June 27, 2012 at 2:50 AMI think it is looking really good and when it is
finished it will be absolutely beautiful.
I love the front and how it sweeps back to the hip.
Lauren R
June 27, 2012 at 8:55 PMThank you. I'm looking forward to trimming it – I think that will make all the difference.
Katrina - Edelweiss Patterns
June 27, 2012 at 4:04 AMOh my goodness! That fabric is stunning, and the flowers are perfectly placed in back. I love how crisply you pressed the inverted pleats, too.
Happy sewing!
Katrina
Lauren R
June 27, 2012 at 8:55 PMThank you!
KittyKatt
June 27, 2012 at 4:50 AMIt's like upholstering yourself! What fun…and so well done!
Lauren R
June 27, 2012 at 8:55 PMBwahaha! Yes, I suppose that is exactly what it is!
Clare
June 27, 2012 at 10:46 AMOoh, lovely work on the pattern placement – it looks brilliant!
Cation Designs
June 27, 2012 at 5:44 PMOh my goodness gracious…this is going to be gorgeous! I love how you've done the flower placement!
Lauren R
June 27, 2012 at 8:55 PMThank you!
Lauren
June 29, 2012 at 4:20 PMThis is going to be gorgeous!!!
Anna
June 30, 2012 at 7:25 PMUgh that fabric is SO FANTASTIC…I am steeping in envy over here. This is going to be such a beautiful little jacket!