|Finished - they close edge-to-edge across my bust, but I also like them open like this - more thrust! See the difference in shape between these and Olympe's?|
This design presented some challenges. Thanks to this post on Diary of a Mantua Maker, I was able to wrap my head around the idea of vertical and horizontal bones crossing one another, and also how to get that great "thrust" shape we all love.
Here's the trick...well, two tricks, actually. #1 is to curve the side front seam (this is on the front piece) rather dramatically, but set it against a straight seam for the side front piece. This causes the front to pull in tightly, particularly across the stomacher, so that in profile, your front is now curved inward rather than board-straight, like we see on earlier stays and those of previous centuries.
|A close up of "the pocket"|
|The pocket sewn inside - another layer of lining goes over this.|
|Boning channels sewn through the front - I did this for the look, but I don't think I'd do it like this again.|
|See the curved front seam?|
These stays are constructed of jacquard and muslin - the front pieces have the outer layer, then four layers of muslin across the bust, while the rest of the stays have just the outer layer and the one lining layer. The edges are bound in boring ole twill bias, and the lacing is satin ribbon through grommets - yes, grommets, I know, I'm SO BAD! lol.
If you are interested in these, they are for sale on Etsy, or if you would like a pair similar, please e-mail me and we can chat :-).