Lucky me for two things - one is that I *just* made this jacket, the exact same jacket she is wanting. Also, she is almost exactly my own measurements!
I'm starting with the shift. It's a basic shirt made of rectangular panels, with under-arm gussets, and a high collar. The interesting thing that makes it more 17th c. than Elizabethan is it has a built-in "ruff," a floppy, pleated collar attached to the neck band. This can be worn out over the bodices or jackets, or tucked inside the shirt and a separate ruff worn. Crafty!
Here are some reference images for the doublet and/or shirt, from various Plimoth Plantation websites and articles (links only):
|(c) Wolfgang Wander - linked to from his webpage. This|
shows the falling band collar nicely.
|(c) Tom Brosnahan - this is a link to his image on|
|(c) Wolfgang Wander - linked to from his webpage|
Here's another great example of the jacket construction, from Extreme Costuming:
We've changed the collar to 2.5" wide instead of 3" wide.
The fabric will be 100% linen, from Dharma Trading Co., in white. It needs multiple washings and some fabric softener, as it's rather crispy now (the nature of linen), but as soon as that's done, I'll be on to the shirt! This will actually be the very first time in the history of American Duchess that I have worked with 100% linen. Don't I feel period accurate! :-D
More and more and more to come on this project. Also, do not be hurt, I will post updates to the Baroque gown soon, as I will be finishing it for a ball the last weekend of June.