Monday, April 26, 2010

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Going Baroque - The Guts of the Beast

So excited about this costume am I that I spent tonight sewing the lining (simple white muslin) and the interlining (canvas) together and beginning my boning channels, to make the structured base upon which will be placed my gunmetal satin and all its glorious trimmings.
The canvas layer (interlining)

I've done a front-closing bodice, with the linings lacing closed beneath a stomacher-like placket that will be pinned into place.  This seemed like the best method to ensure an exact fit, and also the ability to get myself in and out of this gown (always important).

The two linings sewn together, with only hemp in the
curved seams and some channels sewn up the back.
You can see it does not conform the body much at all, 
and needs structure.

I zig-zag stitched fatty hemp cord to the curved seams of the canvas layer, for both stability and stiffening.  You can see that the canvas, muslin, and hemp is stiff and conforms the body a bit, but doesn't have quite enough structure...a bit rolley and smooshy, asking for more boning.

 Looking great, and wears quite comfortable, with
vertical bones in the front (lacking the
two that will be either side of the cut for the tabs).
No gapping issues at all with the neck, or wrinkles
anywhere!

I'm using 1/4" lightweight zipties for the rest of the boning, and running them vertically from the bottom of the tabs to wherever they end up hitting - you can see I curved the tops of the bones, on the front, under the curved bust seam.  Lacing into this, I noticed an AMAZING difference, and am SO pleased with how it is turning out.  Unfortunately I'm out of bones, so off to the hardware store I go.  The back needs channels and bones as well.

The bodice at this point fits like a glove, a shockingly comfortable glove, even without the tabs being yet cut.  I can only hope and work diligently to make *sure* the gunmetal grey satin is stretched perfectly over this lining - no wrinkles!, and secured to the base at any opportunity.  I suppose that is the next step - cutting out the satin and acquiring tons and tons of metallic silver trims! yay!
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6 comments:

  1. What Lauren says! I'm going to get back here when I start mine!

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  2. Looks awesome! Will you be able to lift your arms much? That's the one oddity I've heard about this style.

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  3. Gloria, probably not much motion upwards in the arms, but that is the problem in general with off-the-shoulder styles, including Victorian. I've gotten used to it, haha.

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  4. Looking great! The seams give some lovely lines, which'll be picked out nicely by the trim - can't wait to see that!!

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  5. Did you Draft this yourself or are you using a pattern? I really love that baroque neckline but i am having trouble making my own and cant find a decent pattern anywhere. Any tips would be much appreciated :)

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