The canvas layer (interlining)
I've done a front-closing bodice, with the linings lacing closed beneath a stomacher-like placket that will be pinned into place. This seemed like the best method to ensure an exact fit, and also the ability to get myself in and out of this gown (always important).
The two linings sewn together, with only hemp in the
curved seams and some channels sewn up the back.
You can see it does not conform the body much at all,
and needs structure.
I zig-zag stitched fatty hemp cord to the curved seams of the canvas layer, for both stability and stiffening. You can see that the canvas, muslin, and hemp is stiff and conforms the body a bit, but doesn't have quite enough structure...a bit rolley and smooshy, asking for more boning.
Looking great, and wears quite comfortable, with
vertical bones in the front (lacking the
two that will be either side of the cut for the tabs).
No gapping issues at all with the neck, or wrinkles
I'm using 1/4" lightweight zipties for the rest of the boning, and running them vertically from the bottom of the tabs to wherever they end up hitting - you can see I curved the tops of the bones, on the front, under the curved bust seam. Lacing into this, I noticed an AMAZING difference, and am SO pleased with how it is turning out. Unfortunately I'm out of bones, so off to the hardware store I go. The back needs channels and bones as well.
The bodice at this point fits like a glove, a shockingly comfortable glove, even without the tabs being yet cut. I can only hope and work diligently to make *sure* the gunmetal grey satin is stretched perfectly over this lining - no wrinkles!, and secured to the base at any opportunity. I suppose that is the next step - cutting out the satin and acquiring tons and tons of metallic silver trims! yay!