17th c. Jacket – Progress on the Final

With my client’s 17th c. jacket toile back, unpicked, and the pattern altered, I cut into the lovely burgundy wool, and began putting the final piece together, starting with the gussets.

My what lovely gussets.  I machine stitched the lining and outer gussets fabrics together, then turned under and pressed the edges of the bodice pieces, where the gussets would be placed.  The gussets are hand sewn in (top-stitched), using backstitch, on the outside, and I will turn, press, and hand sew the lining into place on the inside using a whip-stitch.

The edges of the slashes, turned back and pressed.
Hand sewing always seems to go quicker in front of the TV, which in this case is Hulu.com on my laptop.

Next step, I’m going to make the sleeves in their entirety (outer+lining), and sew them to the bodice, before doing the bodice lining, which will be flat-lined.  Then on to the front placket, alllll those buttonholes and self-covered buttons (15 of them), and the last little bit of goodness is to turn up the hem with a bit of bias cut out of the red wool.  Sounds easy, huh?

I must remember that the jacket will no longer fit the dress form exactly, as it is now fitting my client, according to the changes she made on her toile.  I must trust the pattern now!


  • Rowenna

    August 7, 2010 at 9:14 PM

    Love the fabric! That color is stunning. Agreed–hand sewing and TV were meant for one another (I usually pick bad SciFi, myself). Lovely work!

  • Olympe de la Tour D'Auvergne

    August 8, 2010 at 5:38 AM

    Love your desk set-up, very cozy and classic.

    The fabric etc is on its way to you. Expect it at the beginning of next week.

  • Anonymous

    August 8, 2010 at 4:00 PM

    What wonderful work and I'm so glad you can share it. Thank you for the tip on hulu. I have no TV in my studio so maybe that will work for me too.
    Au Revoir,

  • American Duchess

    August 8, 2010 at 6:15 PM

    I'm having a lot of fun working on this project! I can't wait to get to the self-covered buttons. Something about closely-spaced self-covered buttons, I love it, maybe it's the medieval garments or the men's doublets I like so much, with that button detailing? I don't know. I'll post a bit more probably this evening or tomorrow, as I get the sleeves going, and the lining started.

  • Lauren

    August 9, 2010 at 4:36 PM

    Lovely! Yes, hand sewing is best in front of entertainment. Hulu is definitely one of the top choices in our house 😉


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