I started putting together this jacket last night, using a flatlining technique new to me. I thought it would be grand to interface (yes, I said interface) the thin cotton, to give it some thickness, but that turned out to be a mightily bad idea, and I ended up peeling it off the side back pieces (to make a looooong story very short).
A fitting, pinned onto the stays, with the placket pinned over the top – no boning at this point.
Of course, it’s a totally different order of operations that I’m not used to, and I’ve had to really think through every step before jumping in. There is no cruise control on this project, though I expect this method will become second nature down the line, when I’ve worked with it more.
So, I stopped tonight with the body of the bodice together, awaiting some bones and eyelets to lace together to front. I stitched together one sleeve, which you see in the photo, not turned right-side-out, as it requires some seam finishing still.
I’ve chosen to use the “wrong” side of the cotton fashion fabric. The “right” side, as beautiful as it is, seemed too bright and saturate to emulate 18th c. vegetable dyes. The reverse side of the fabric shows the grain and is a lot less saturate, though it does give a greater casual appearance, more like seersucker. From a short distance, it is not noticeable at all.
This jacket should be done rather quickly, barring any major setbacks. It’s nice to have a short-term, “simple” project to occupy me and give me a break from the larger, scarier projects.
AngieJuly 29, 2009 at 7:35 AM
I love flat lining. That's how we make stage costumes because it's easier to alter later! It really does take a little getting used to, but once you have it…it's second nature.
The DreamstressJuly 29, 2009 at 9:37 AM
Fantastic! I love it! I was going to suggest using the 'wrong' side of the fabric, but it looks like you are way ahead of me there!
LaurenJuly 29, 2009 at 9:55 PM
I can't wait to see it completed! Lovely!
E. WatermanJuly 30, 2009 at 11:13 PM
I cannot wait to see this completed!! So far it looks fantastic
Lauren RJuly 31, 2009 at 5:46 PM
Angie, I'm really loving flat-lining too, though I think next time I will work with a stiffer lining material like linen, instead of really soft cotton.
Leimomi – we're thinkin' the same 🙂