Tuesday, September 16, 2014

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New Project! Russian-Inspired Late Edwardian Suit

It feels like it's been ages since I embarked on a complex historical project, but with Winter coming, and photo shoots needing shooting, it's time to start (yes, already!) on a project that's been in my mind for awhile.

I need to come up with a clever name for it, because there are just too many descriptors - Late Edwardian/early 1920s-red-wool-Russian-inspired-winter-soutache-military-themed-furry-jacket-suit-thing just won't do. What should I call it?

Here's the inspo:

Louis Vallet - 1916
1915 - via
1913
1915 - via
For the soutache embroidery, I'm studying these, along with many more you can see on my Pinterest board for this project:

Alexandra;s tunic from her uniform as commander-in-chief of the 5th Aleksonariya Hussars - via
Jacket and skirt, c. 1890-1900 - via
The Met, c. 1899 - via
A few sketches I did for soutache ideas:


I went shopping for materials yesterday and found them quite easily, all in one place - wool, soutache braid, lining, buttons - which I'm going to believe means this project wants to be put together. :-)


For the jacket pattern, I am using Wearing History R109 - 1910s Jacket Pattern. This is one of the Resto-Vival ePatterns I printed out and taped together. It took a little time, but I didn't have to wait for it in the snail-mail. I do have to test it out thoroughly with a muslin, though, to make sure all the pieces line up nicely, as there's quite a lot of room for error when taping the pieces together.

Wearing History ePattern - click here to see the listing for it
For the jacket, I will be attempting to alter the collar so it can be turned up and buttoned around the neck - it will be faux fur, along with the cuffs and hem of the jacket.

For the skirt, I will be using Butterick 4092, which is an earlier, thinner skirt silhouette, more 1912, but I also found surprisingly narrow skirts in the 1919 section of Everyday Fashions of the Twenties: As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs (see in the photo above with the materials).

Butterick 4092 - I'll use View B with alterations.
I suppose now it's time to get started! Bring on the tailoring, the soutache embroidery, and the fur-sewing. These are all things I have very little or no experience with, so it'll be a good challenge, and hopefully will turn out to be something I'm proud of. :-)
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24 comments:

  1. This is going to be seriously awesome. Favorite fashion era, right here.

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  2. I like the soutache pattern that is second from the right. Are you planning to wear this with your new cut out boots? I don't know if the era match but I think it would be a great way to show the boots off because of the length of the skirt on the original inspiration picture.

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    1. I'm planning to pair this with the Carriage Boots arriving for the holidays, but it would also go with Tavistocks, or the two new button boots I'm working on, which are all Edwardian - 1920s :-)

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  3. You should call it "Natasha," or maybe, "Lara."

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  4. I'm looking forward to seeing it; the effect should be charming.

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  5. Love it! Can't wait to see more.

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  6. I think you should call it "The Red Russian." Sounds mysterious, like a femme fatale, or like a ripping good cocktail!

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  7. Oooo, I can't wait to see it and your research along the way. I was also thinking a good name would be "The Red Russian"--or maybe the "From Russia With Love" ensemble.

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  8. It's going to be awesome. Black and red is one of the best combos. :)
    -Emily

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  9. What about something like... Anastasia, after the Russian Grand Duchess? Or something simple like the 'Soutache Suit' or 'Military Matryoshka' (after the Russian doll) :) It's going to look great!

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  10. Cant wait to see your journey and the finished garment. Ooo yes 'The Red Russian' sounds cool.

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  11. I can't wait to see this in progress! So interesting to see the Russian influence in clothing from this period, especially given Russia's political upheaval and revolution just prior to this time. And then the Red connotations take on a whole new layer of historical neat. The Red Revolution dress sounds a bit macabre, though :)

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    1. I agree, it is an interesting influence at that time. I definitely want to read more about it.

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  12. I am so impressed!!! BTW, I like the Butterick skirt pattern! It works really nice

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    1. I agree! I have to lengthen in and will be altering the front panels just a bit, but otherwise it's really simple to put together with great results.

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  13. I love those inspiration images. This looks like such a fun project, looking forward to seeing it come together. Russia, winter and 19teens makes me think of Dr Zhivago.

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